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It’s to cover the cutter block when the fence is in the forward position.

When I took mine out the system I could only force air into the vessel with a small bike suspension pump at 100psi+ the diaphragm was firmly adhered to the vessel wall in all locations. It was the adhesion causing the issue not the pressure in the system.

That’s a huge weight, I think you’ll need something like a set of machinery skates. They are not normally a permanent fixture and would raise the machine considerably. Also would be worried about any solid wheel deforming with that load in a static position for any period of time.

An undersized expansion vessel for your system volume will put more stress on the diaphragm, could be part of your issue. We installed a number of old school radiators and had to install secondary expansion vessel due to the extra volume.

Sounds same as when my expansion vessel failed. The diaphragm in the vessel ends up forced against the vessel walls. My theory is once the diaphragm fails the air in the vessel leaks onto the water side, most boilers have a auto air release, or you bleed the air out of on of the radiators which...

I was trying to find an image but failed, so a poor quality drawing instead. The thicknessed board has a baton/retaining timber added to the front and back edge so that it hooks over the bed.

If you put a board through the thicknesser and then attach this to the thicknesser bed you’ll have a surface aligned with the knives. A bit of a hack but it’ll work.

Suggests to me that the vessel has failed. I removed a vessel earlier this year with the same behavior. I used a high pressure mountain bike suspension pump to force the valve open after that any air put in leaked past the diaphragm.

Secondary glazing on the inside has in my experience resulted in significant condensation on the original single glazing. The secondary glazing is good at preventing the heat from escaping but not the moist air, so the original glazing behind it is colder and suffers worse condensation.

Welcome to UKW. The router table is an an excellent tool, and one of my upgrade/build list items as my current one is not flat enough. I also got a cordless palm router last Xmas, which has become one of my favorite tools. And obviously a stoopid caravan question as they are all petrol driven, doh!

I could be preaching to the choir but 15mm thick boards will bend, cup, bow, twist and move an incredible amount whilst drying. I cut up a similar sized cherry tree with 25mm boards and once dry the largest flat and square piece I could get was about 40cm long, 10cm wide, and 15mm thick. I cut...

It looks like a great build kit, the vice hardware looks super quality, just trying to decide how to do the leg vice on my build.

It’s a bit of an apple to oranges comparison. One is selling machined wood, so should have little wastage, the other you will have to plane to size. Selling wood by weight is odd for me, and I’d only buy by weight if the were no defects in the wood. When buying by volume I’d expect most good...

On my Sedgwick morticer there is a grub screw on the collar, it’s very obvious so I doubt yours is hiding. My only thought is that the head pivots off the screw, the solid rod possibly preventing this pivot, can you unscrew the solid rod?

Take a look at this thread, seems it was a worn belt. https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/p-t-woes.128397/

Fixing sash window rotten boxes. Yes a full rebuild would be more sensible but I have a lot of internal panelling around them which would have to come off, and I’m trying to move house, so for now this is adequate.

Sapele is prone to tear-out. A router plan has no mouth so nothing to support the wood and prevent tear-out so I find they can grab very badly, especially if the cut is too heavy. A lighter cut, and a shearing cut where you try and slice side to side can help.

Fabulous, love the bridles and through mortices on the frame.

IMHO breaking 3mm drill bits is unlikely due to drill bit quality. That sounds a bit rude but I’m concerned you’ll spend more and still break them. The physical strength of the bit is unlikely much different between brands. I find I snap 3mm bits when I put lateral force on them.

I use the GVS SPR501, about £20-30 free from screwfix depending if on sale. It uses replaceable filters which encourages me to change them more frequently. I find it comfortable to wear with no noticeable restriction so can use it even when working hard. It can build up moisture inside that...