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Glad to be of some possible help. We went for a small Japanese saw too,she was already differentiating between push and pull types with using Silky's for green, and a Spear&Jackson for rough cross-cutting -so a small Japaness saw was a no-brainer. If you're a bodger, I'm sure he'd love using a...

Late, I know :o ECE Boy's plane? My 8yo daughter gets on well with Luban butt chisels.

Doh, beaten to them :)

Sheepskin gilet with the wool inside.

Thanks Pete, just watched the Boggs episode-what an amazing resource! I've watched a couple before now, when researching my Roman bench build, etc, but I should deffo pay more attention to it in future :)

Thanks, you're quite right, i've watched a few of Shannon's episodes, and ought to check him out more. Haha, I get what you mean regarding Fidgen's lifestyle coming across, although I don't think his ethos to woodwork would be the same wothout it :) I have Maguire's sharpening series and...

Thanks, i'll check them out :)

Thanks! Sorry, i'm hand tools only, or at least that's where i'm heading :) I do some green woodwork too, and like Follansbee's approach and enjoy the Mortise and Tenon magazines that i've been able to justify, haha. I thought Matt was hybrid?

I'm thinking of subscribing to his online 'Studio' at $20/month. I'm a beginner with a lot to learn. Does anyone on here subscribe and want to provide some feedback please? Cheers.

Some good points here. Build my own when the time comes, i like to know the quality of what's going in, and having warranty for the components too. OP : If Windoze isn't booting, give Linux Mint a shot on that pc, see how you like it, and whether your games are compatible via Steam.

Are you in touch with the APT&GW? Very nice people. Good luck :)

The EW pretty much does keep it simple, for what my novice opinion is worth. On A2, use waterstones for secondary bevel, and mechanical to restore primary. Personally, i'm using a honing guide for the secondary and a Tormek for restoring the primary. Like you say, with A2, it saves a lot of...

+1 - as a noob, these systems yield results. One important thing to take from his series is one's system should be determined by the type of steel you want to sharpen.

Yes, the pith's in there, as is the checking! Bought as structural boxed heart, so no surprises, but thanks :) I'll just need to think about the joinery. I don't know whether it's standard, but the pith and checking are on one outside edge of what was both both beams.

Good point, which would really come to the fore when cleaning up knotty rough stock (like i am currently, but sitting astride the bench/timber) and using a frame saw at a later date.

The only record I can find of it is in the Scott Landis book where I found it. Imagine a simple interpretation of a Roubo, with a slab for the top, pretty much like Schwarz started doing later. These both have leg vices, whereas i'm just going to use a sliding deadman to effectively use the...

To slow down moisture loss to even the drying process - most efficient route for moisture is via the end grain, but this will warp and check the wood severely if not inhibited.

Haha, rustic, probably :( Having to get to grips with my sharpening routine fairly quickly though :)

Thanks Tom. Air dried oak, been in the shop since February though, I didn't get the moisture meter out ( :o) though, but seems dry as a bone. No ripping, except tenon and dovetail joints, although i'll probably have to counter bore the front legs for holdfasts. I fancy having the mass of the...

Thanks Andy! Most of my stock's rough sawn, and with using hand tools, knowing this will be very valuable :)