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OK, I load tested it, and it started to make splitting noises at about 25kg, 40cm from the bend. So I figure I should take 10kg as a safe number. That makes that side of the bed good for 160kg. That's probably enough. I used a tapered router bit from an eBay supplier called Lionmount Hauling...

Just in case anyone's interested, I've made up a test piece, and it's almost ready to load up. The tapered router bit did a really good job, and the kerfs close up beautifully. Using Solidworks, I calculated the number of kerfs and the spacing I needed to create the three bend radii. I added a...

Thanks for all your commnts guys, Pete, I'll try that and I'll let you know the results. Droogs, if that test isn't strong enough, I'll try the carbon fibre.

Thanks for your replies guys. Here's what I'd like to make: It's a bunk bed for my son. It's supported by being anchored to the brick walls on two sides, and by the ladder in the corner (Didn't CAD the rungs yet). My main concern is that some of the weight is being taken through this bend...

I would like to add a nice bent wood feature to my next project, and I figured that kerf bending is the best way to go. Mostly, the kerfs are made using a circular saw, but I saw a video where someone used a tapered router bit to cut them: This way he was able to close up the gaps very...

Hi guys, many thanks for all of your sage advice. It is really helpful. I hadn't considered the possibility that a single mitre might look unbalanced. But I think I'll still go with it because I don't like the idea of seeing the end grain. What I'm not sure about is how to accurately cut the...

Hi all, This is my first post here, and I am looking for some advice. My background: I have some, but not a huge amount of experience working with wood. I made some fairly complex shelves and sliding drawer from 12mm ply. I designed them on the computer, and had the pieces CNC cut for me. (See...