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Hi Matthew The smaller sprocket at the top is meant to be there as well - see my photo. From what I can see from your pictures, yours just needs that lower sprocket reinstating. Cheers John

Sorry to be late to the party. I have the same machine and I can confirm you should have a sprocket rather than that idler wheel. The chain passes on the right hand side of that sprocket to tension it. It's a bit tricky to get photos but I've done what I can - one photo from the top and a few...

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I have exactly that model and I've no complaints. As the others have said, they often fetch good money. Mine runs off a 16 A supply - if you are having the workshop rewired it makes sense to put one (or more) in for machines with induction motors. Whilst it would run on a 13 A plug, I found...

Thanks Marcus - that's really helpful. My vaguely formed ideas were along similar lines and, like you, I have an attachment point on the machine to take a metal rod. I would certainly appreciate info on the spring suppliers when you have got the quotes. Cheers, John.

I could do with making some too, so I'd be grateful for any info you could share on suppliers and how you are constructing them. Thanks, John.

I don't think PVA is a good idea - it is incompatible with concrete and will break down over time (concrete is alkaline - PVA is normally used on plaster which isn't alkaline). But that doesn't stop half the builders in the country slapping it on by the bucketful in every situation. Cheers, John.

Chris I have a K-series multico which I think is pretty similar to the M-series. You will need collets - you could either get these made up by an engineer or buy them. I haven't bought anything from them (yet) but I found these people to be very helpful on the phone...

Ah yes, that is a much better approach.

Wow! Looking great. When you started the WIP you had already made the top carcass - I'm guessing splined or biscuited mitres were used for that, with a plywood base? Presumably the front was bandsawn out of a thick section - how did you clean it up to get such a lovely finish across the...

Now I've got time for a slightly more considered response - last night I had to dash off for my pancakes! (No burgers though!) It looks like Axi also do the metal band clamps like yours, Roger - they look pretty much identical. Definitely worth the investment - the last mitred frame I made...

Looking good, Roger. You do work fast - you'd be finished by now if you hadn't taken time out to answer my questions! Much appreciated. Regards, John.

I love your WIPs, Roger - I learn a lot. I'm quite a fan of the Davenport, although it wouldn't look right in my 1980s house! A few questions about the mitres - I find them hard to get right. Do you have a mitre trimmer or a shooting-board, or are these straight off the saw? Those strap...

Thanks Luciano - a simple solution. Regards, John.

One of the rings needed a little filing to remove a blip on the side, the other two just need a good whack with a rubber mallet to drive them flush. Very pleased with it. Does anyone have any recommendations for leveling screws that I can put in the router table to ensure the plate is flush...

Got mine too. I only had time for a quick look at it tonight, but I think it might need a quick file on the rings as the others have reported. I'll see how I get on at the weekend. Thanks once again Dibs. Regards, John.

I would agree with Jack - if the outfeed is just a fraction too high it will tend to taper the wood. John.

Lovely box. Thanks for sharing. John.

Hi Dibs Sorry for sneaking in under the wire - I've just joined the forum and spotted this. I'd be interested in a steel plate if I'm not too late. Thanks for organising this. =D> John.