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The roof will be tied in to the new floor with plywood bracing gussets, as advised by BC, although the roof is actually supported on 5 massive timber beams approx 16" x 8". The new space isn't going to be used for anything for now, so if/when they decide to convert, then they will notify the...

I'm helping with a guy to do some work on his house, long story short, the original plan has changed and now that all the upstairs ceilings have been taken down and orignal ceiling joists inspected, it's been decided that they'll need replacing and while we're at it be lowered for extra space in...

Not what I wanted to hear, but was expecting it. This has been one of those jobs thats been a pain in the buttocks from the start. I'm tempted to put it outside for a couple of days before I finish painting it to see what the moist weather will do to it

The part that opens holding the glass, the casement correct?

I've made four meranti casement windows frames for a customer, but one of the frames has twisted slightly. They are aprox 700 x 400 and the one thats warped, when laid flat, has lifted accross opposite corners by around 12mm. I can push it back down flat with some resistance, but don't want to...

A built-in and floating shelves I made last week, they'll be painted white

I have a job coming up that will require some raised panel doors making, can anyone recomend a reasonable quallity budget raised panel router bit set. I don't want to spend a fortune as they won't get much use. Thanks

Just order up a new nipple, whip that one out and work out what thread it has (possibly 1/8th BSP) and get either a regular style nipple, an extension for the nipple to screw into or drill and re-tap to a more suitable size. Any bearing/engineering/nut & bolt shop will sell them

Maybe attach it to a scrap peice using double sided tape so you have something to safely hold, or make a sled to attach it to and run it through the TS on that

Drill a small hole at the end of the crack to stop it going any further. You could epoxy it or you could find a friendly welder to weld it for you, but welding cast isn't great and the heat may warp it

Thanks Jon, PM sent :-D

The Rigid version I had in Canada was exactly the same as this one. Nice tool when you need it

When I was in Canada carpentering, we had Festool sanders, as you'd expect they were very good. Not having that kind of money now I'm back in blighty, I settled for a Makita B05030. The Festool had something like a 2.5mm stroke which makes for a nice smooth action without shredding the wood, so...

I just picked up a cheap Makita replica mini router and 1/8" roundover bit off ebay for less than £40 soley for the purpose of breaking edges

Are they that bad? Is it the motor or the quality of the blades making the noise? How do they compare against the Dewalt/Makita versions?

I've been looking out for a sencond hand one, and if the price is right then I will buy one. It doesn't need to be too big, the widest I would probably ever go is 6", but it will get more shelf time than usage. I'll look into the Axminster and Triton

Thanks

I'm in the market for a thicknesser for an upcoming job I've got. I know these two don't generaly go together, but I'm looking for a cheap but half decent one. I'd like a decent one but can't justify £300+ price tag for a tool I'll only use once every blue moon. Some quick Googling brings up...

Thats they, thanks - I can't get the search thing to work. The one I'm building is very similar, I'll post a photo when its done.

I have a cabinet and shelves in a traditional style to make in an alcove next to a fire place, I have a design in mind, but remember seeing a picture on here recently of one someone had made and if I remember correctly there was a link to a set of built in MDF wardrobes that someone else had...