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@Jake - thanks for that, that site is definitely more specific, nice one. @ Robin - that was great info, esp how much the setup takes to prime and the cleaning routine. I spray quite a bit of AC and am loathed to mix up 2 or more litres just to final finish on a table top but short of cutting...

guess the AAA users are a bit thin on the ground then!

Got myself an air assisted airless graco unit for a good price - couldn't resist, but with my 20 yrs HVLP (only) experience i'm not confident enough to get started with it yet. :? Anyone here have much experience of them? I found some useful stuff on woodweb but any other poiinters would be...

..it is a bit technical sounding, but it's just basically the lacquer (AC) that is sprayed on a lot of kitchen fitted worktops commercially - but you'd be brushing it and leveling it off with fine paper. When I've done it i've used 2 thickish coats and got a great result with a matt finish.I've...

must say i'm in the camp of 'there is always a suggestion of orange peel' with from the gun finishes, but i've fluked a few 'perfect' ones from the gun I'm sure :) - but never got a firm handle on exactly what elements all came together correctly, thinners, passes with the gun, temperature...

can't help you directly with your problem but i find it hard to get away from slight orange peel with my hvlp system and am constantly varying the thinners to combat it. My atomisation with my 2 (?) stage earlex is not great but holds up for most work. Another polisher associate won't use HVLP...

@ Rob, i'll let you know how I get on as i'm at the stage of removing a couple of velcro pads from my sanders along with the foam. I realised i just couldn't 'revelcro' as the foam will generally come with the knackered velcro too, so i've got some thin rubber/foam material that i'll ply between...

If i were trying to give a client a work top that had a kitchen resistant finish on it 'd go for AC lacquer with the liming effect got from experimenting with a modern grain filler, preferably thinnable to control the wipe off, tinting it up with titanium pigment if you wanted more intensity to...

Thanks for all the above, and yes it does seem logical not to go full speed in regard to heat build up, i use many sanders but the detail sander seems to heat up crazy quick! If anyone else is intersted i tracked down a supplier of good width sheets that suites tool dimensions instead of the...

I user sanders all day long and have just recently bought a detail sander - a bosch type that cuts/saws as well as sands (Bosch PMF 180E Multicutte), anyway basically the triangle velcro sanding base melts if your not careful, leaving it knackered basically. It's a known problem as i'm reading...

The good thing about nitro cellulose is that it burns itself into each successive layer with it's solvent, this is great if your going for a full grain gloss finish to burnish as you won't be left with 'halos' - which is where the previous layer is revealed when you cut back prior to polishing...

excuse me butting in - but i agree with the paint stripper suggestions, iv'e done many staircase strip and repolishes and if the heatgun is making something sticky then i'd move onto stripper and course wire wool. It looks like a dried in/baked sort of primer/stain residue. Bleaching could be...

Hi, no i also use a 1mm tip for smaller atomisation for the lacquers, though you can get away with the 2 if you need to. Regarding cleaning the way I've now adopted is to get hold of some cheap B grade thinners (my is morrels gunwash) for about £10 for 5 litres and fire it through the gun at the...

it's possible to get it lighter, but using 2 pack bleaches will deaden the look of the wood, it will give you a lighter base colour to work from though. If i were stipping it i'd daub it heavily with paint stripper, leave to react and pressure hose it somewhere safe, repeating until you've blown...

Yeah big up the Earlex Pro HV5000 (as they say!). I just done a commercial finishing job with one on a couple of bar installations. I've even done a piano finish with my'n many times, though getting a good flow coat with every material can be challenging with the basic gun controls, you often...

@MIGNAL staying slightly off the van dyke topic, i too am a polisher of many years and also think you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference with a french polished piece that's had multiple mop coats, left weeks to harden (what a luxury!) then flatted and rubbered - as opposed to many...

i take the point but pigmented stains are then winners when it comes to being lightfast i think, what i'm on about above would be a pigment stain, but yeah the test of any colour material is light, uv, time etc..

Anyone making they're own water stains here? This (longish) post won't be for everyone but if you have to come up with colour matches using pigmented stains regularly it might be of some use to you. I've read about operators making their own stains by using off the shelf (or custom mixed)...

One other worthwhile tip for sealing inside panel edges (eg: shaker style doors) is to put the mix in a squeezy bottle with a narrow squirt tip, then in one go draw a thin line along the inside (pre sanded) edge, keep the line as thin as poss' leaving the final inch into the corner dry, then...

I'm guessing you maybe mean edges of MDF as the face sides finish pretty good with primer? Choking with primer is Ok but i'm not happy with the extra work and material it can take. i do my'n with pva diluted 2 pva to 1 part water and it's pretty quick if your well organised. I deal with this...