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I've used pallet truck wheels in a steel L section frame with cantilever hold downs at the rear and an eye at the front so that a similarly wheeled ~5ft dolly can be hooked under to allow moving a heavy old cast spindle molder around my workshop. As others have stated this requires a very smooth...

Forgot to add - natively I am predominantly left handed but years of having to cope with things like scissors/can openers have encouraged my learning to perform these acts using my 'dark' side ...:)

Being more or less ambidextrous I don't even think about it -I can hand plane with similar dexterity (or ineptitude) in either direction... But then again maybe I'm in a permanently confused or perplexed state of mind.....

I've never knowingly worked with ipe but it looks similar to sapele but maybe more even grained however they look good! The Adirondacks I personally really don't like the look of them even though I know they are incredibly comfortable to sit in - it's weird I find the look of them somehow jars...

Yes that's the stuff - I've only used it in fair weather and outside since you need otherwise to have full protective extraction since the fumes are highly toxic. The upside is you can re-coat within ~20mins and sand after about an hour, so super quick to get close to a final finish pretty...

I forgot to add - if you have access to someone who can spray 2-part catalytic paint (2k) you can get the same finish way quicker..

I've used it and as @niall Y mentioned if you need to build up a reasonable thickness with multiple coats then this can take a while as it is quite thin, however the upside is it can be smoothed easily and using wet-n-dry you can easily achieve a piano depth finish if you wish. It also as Niall...

This actually happened and is I think amusing for all the wrong reasons - After watching the YT recordings of the Horizon Inquiry I went into my local Waterstones to buy the Nick Wallis book 'The Great Post Office Scandal' having checked online that they had a copy in stock and I searched high...

That looks like a useful and solid saw, can't offer any insight as to the manufacturer but am sure others will

I too remember one summer holiday job when a teenager labouring on a site that was building up an out of town supermarket and they used these cap guns for attaching the block ties to the RSJ superstructure. As others have mentioned these were frightening - they easily pierced the central section...

I have a couple of the Linkwitz subs in a twin folded horn design 'Wicked One' by Decware that with little input power will shake concrete floors. I built a half model for my flat-living daughter using an original Dayton sub drive unit a mate shipped back from the USA. In her living room only...

I invested in one of these - it was on special offer at the time and used it to print onto heatshrink cable for labelling electrical cables and the like. It is very good and even aftermarket, cheaper non-Brother consumables work really well

Apologies - see my prior reply to sploo. The drive units are SEAS L26R04Y which have very deep magnets and voice coils allowing 28mm p-p linear travel and a maximum excursion of 56mm and I seem to remember they were around £300 each.

Over the last 4-5y I have had a few medical issues, one symptom of which is intermittent partial vision loss in one eye, so given that and the fact I live in a rural area necessitating me to drive is a bit of an issue. So plan is to sell up and move somewhere more suitable- likely a town based...

My single LX521 is up for grabs if you are interested - I have all the drives for the partner and most of the sub cabinet is pre-assembled but unpainted +old style active crossovers and 2 spare SEAS sub drivers

You were lucky, I only exchanged a few emails with him back in 2013 and would have loved to have met him, he was an incredibly talented guy

Hi, looking for some advice, I am selling up and looking to move into more suitable accommodation due to failing health and need to dispose of the contents of a pretty much full 4 x 5m workshop. I know I can sell some of the larger kit and hand tools on the For Sale forum however I have some...

As others have said, speaker design is quite complex and there are numerous designs used to overcome these physical limitations This is an example - one of a never to be finished pair of open baffle design by the late Siegrfried Linkwitz

+ for Wera bits and Wiha screwdrivers - as @Sideways I find Wiha drivers to be well designed and have the right balance of hardness and toughness

I agree wrt a leather strop, I just lay it on the float glass 'shelf' atop a 120-grit carborundum sheet glued to it for 2nd grind when sharpening - other side is 80-grit. Plenty flat enough for honing an edge, albeit I rarely use it as my usual sequence of 80-120-320-1600 grits leaves a near...