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Thanks for your replies guys, yes I was expecting to pay top dollar for decent kit, and to be honest, my Milwaukee drill has performed admirably, so I'd be more than happy to buy another. I'll look into the Fuel range, they sound the business. I'm currently also looking into putting new cells...

The batteries on my Milwaukee 18v are shot, and unfortunately they changed the design a few years ago, so I can't get hold of replacement batteries anywhere. So, I put it to the jury, which drill should I go for? I have no real brand preference but need a decent combi drill, and I may even be...

Yes, I agree with Matt, get the appropriate Nilfisk hose, they work really well.

It's mainly on the skew chisel, I sharpen on the platen but I believe that the belt folds up just a hair in front of the tool, resulting in a very small round over. The edge is still pretty sharp, but doesn't seem as good as off the grindstone. The hollow bevel might also have a part to play...

Ha! I haven't been on this forum for a good few months, but surprise surprize, the first post i find is on sharpening/grinding. ;-)) I've used a Tormek, ProEdge and a simple grinder with a decent Norton 3X wheel, here are my thoughts. Tormek - produces great edges but is quite slow...

Update: I've just tried Walnut oil, and it gives a lovely feel, I'll report back when it cures. Cheers Aled

I like your use of the drill for sanding, I take it that you've converted it to run off a transformer of some kind. 12V? Hmmm..... :idea: #-o #-o Aled

I have my lathe centre height an inch or so above my elbow height, and my grinder centre height a few inches above that again. This may sound high, but it works for me, meaning that I don't have to stoop over to see what I'm doing. Glenn Lucas also advocates mounting your grinder high up for...

Wow, I thought we'd come up with a consensus pretty quickly on a basic salad bowl finish, but it seems that there are as many answers as there are issues. - The issue I have with sunflower/olive/mineral oil is that they don't harden and therefore will wash off. - Tung/Danish oils have added...

Interesting, Mike Mahoney's finishing oil is popular in the States and that's pure walnut oil. If I remember correctly it's what Glenn Lucas uses on all of his bowls.

Great, thanks. Do you have any experience with walnut oil? From a little reading on the web, it seems to be pretty popular and is one of the fastest polymerising natural oils (so they say anyway) so it should dry to a nice sheen.

Hi, what do you guys use as a durable salad bowl finish? Ideally I'd like something with a bit of a sheen. Thanks Aled

I use a Norton 3X 60G wheel which grinds cooler than any other I've ever used, they really are worth the money. One thing to remember is the thinner the section of steel, the quicker it will reach and pass it's tempering temperature (~200 degrees C for O1 high carbon steel). If you have a...

I was planning to go to the ISCA show (Paul, the guy that runs it was a technician at the University of Glamorgan many moons ago - a great guy!) and it would have been good to meet up with fellow UKWorkshoppers, but unfortunately the WJEC have just offered me a bit of marking work - GCSE Design...

I'm afraid that I'm in the other camp, if it's badly cracked and missing the wedge and full of worm holes, I'd burn it and either make a new body, or just pick another up at a car boot/ebay. There's loads of them out there! Aled

I can't see how it would be "flush cutting" unless it has no set, in which case, it's probably useless at everything else it's meant to do... My rule of thumb with older "proper" tenon saws (given that the saw plate is in good nick) is to look for a comfy looking handle and a nicely made brass...

Yes, pure Argon for Stainless and Aluminium. The range of filler wire availabe is mind boggling once you start looking into it, I have a Murex catalogue somewhere that lists all of their wire/rod ranges, it's about half an inch thick!!

An excellent idea Richard, I used to do something similar with an engineers angle plate, but clamping both the sole and side was a bit of a phaff, the angle section in a vice is a far better solution. Aled

Saw sharpening is pretty easy to learn, but beware that sharpening is only really possible on traditional saws. Your "hardpoint" saw will have it's teeth impulse hardened to such a level of hardness that it will probably damage the file, rather than the file cut the saw. I once tried to file...

I don't think that I've ever come across a hard point tenon (or any other for that matter) in a rip tooth configuration. It's a sad state of affairs, but unfortunately, your only options are 1. Buy a new "proper" saw in a rip cut configuration - Expensive but easy This is the...