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  1. S

    Dead Metabo Planer Thicknesser HC260C.

    My Planer thicknesser didnt start and just made a small sound when i pushed start and smelt of burning. Ive tried fitting a new capacitor but still no life there. Any thoughts and advice would be appreciated, thanks.
  2. S

    Making Beech worktops.

    Thanks for your input the thickness of the 130mm boards will be 57mm so should stay flat. The customer does not want narrow staves hence the 5 widths. If as you say I glue two and then one at a time I could use 30 minute Polyurethane glue with a few biscuits to get glued up quicker.
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    Making Beech worktops.

    Yes I thought of doing it that way also.
  4. S

    Making Beech worktops.

    The longest is 2.05
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    Making Beech worktops.

    Yes they are.
  6. S

    Making Beech worktops.

    Steamed Beach worktops. I have to make up some 57 thick Beech Worktops done in five 130fin board widths. My intention is to glue and biscuit them together therefore any of your opinions would be welcome on what glue to use Cascamite first comes to my mind but then there are the PU glues and PVA etc.
  7. S

    Starrett

    Has anyone got any opinions on Starrett combination squares
  8. S

    Bi-fold doors.

    Hi all, your thoughts please I've been asked to make a set of bi-fold doors (4 Leaves) and frame, they will be painted so what timber to use? Needs to be stable and durable, I would really like your valued opinions. Is Accoya an option or perhaps Idigbo or Sapele. Also best track to use. I look...
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    Cupboard doors

    Good comments Robin, if it was your job what would you use to be confident of no comebacks due to doors twisting? I am leaning towards using Tulip now. Redwood's moisture content is a bit worrying I think. According to Trada Douglas movement is small, Tulip is medium. Not sure about other...
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    Cupboard doors

    What is against using Douglas Fir RobinBHM? I should have said that I would use MDf for the panels and Douglas Fir for stiles and rails then the brass butts will be fitted to solid wood rather than MDf. Tulip wood is not very dense and cannot resist knocks that well in my opinion.
  11. S

    Cupboard doors

    I have to make a large floor to ceiling cupboard with several shaker stile doors hung inset on a face frame with brass butts. I do not want them to move to much or twist at all, the whole cupboard will be painted. I am going to use Douglas Fir rather than Joinery Redwood as I think it will be...
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    Stair configuration

    Thanks a lot Rodders, I've thought about it and yes think I've got it now ....... Just wrap the last part of the stairs around slightly so half Newel etc fit centrally against the end of the stud wall just means joining the outside string at that point with a short return to half newel edge...
  13. S

    Stair configuration

    Hi, I have some stairs to make to fit tight between a wall and studwork but the last four treads at the bottom carry on clear of studwork finishing with a bullnose first tread. This last section is to have an Oak turned newel and some spindles. My question is how to finish this section where the...
  14. S

    Half Glazed Iroko Door

    Yes Roger that sounds good to me.
  15. S

    Half Glazed Iroko Door

    Thanks for responses great to discuss with other tradesman. Yes my gut feeling says beads outside and bottom bead rebated over glazing ledge hockey stick style and right across with sides beveled onto it. Regarding glazing method it's either glazing tape both sides with neutral silicone in gap...
  16. S

    Half Glazed Iroko Door

    Hi y'all I'm going to be making a half glazed Iroko back door, now I know it's traditional to loose bead dg units from inside but what do you all think is best for fail safe glazing as don't want any water getting through. And if external glazing vented or not? What is best glazing method?
  17. S

    Ordered one of these the other day. One of the first in UK

    I am also waiting to receive the 6'x2' version supposed to be delivered tomorrow. I like the portability and quick set up of them. I am cautiously optimistic though.
  18. S

    Japanese Saws

    I must say though now I have mine I would not be without them and sadly I get a little buzz/thrill every time I use them.
  19. S

    Japanese Saws

    I do quite like them but would only use them in the workshop they are razor sharp with a fine kerf and I find they follow a cut line very well but they do take some getting used. I guess that's why I like them it's just so different to what I have always used a tip I read somewhere on YouTube I...
  20. S

    T&G board (matchboard)

    Hmm I just would not feel that the small amount of wood left behind groove could easily split away if at all under any stresses. I have usually face screwed and pelleted but have seen doors showing no fixings which makes me curious as to wether I am wrong.
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