Recent content by Woodwould

I've done a few large scale marquetry jobs and I used hot sand in place of cauls. I basically made a rectangular frame on the floor out of 4" x 2"s into which I set the pre-sized substrate with the pre-sized marquetry panel taped/pinned to it. I then laid a sheet of a type of plastic film (which...

The traditional method was to use flour paste. Cellulose wallpaper paste is a good substitute for flour paste if you don't have any flour in the house.

The chap in the video makes it look very simple. It's even simpler than it looks! It's a very forgiving process and virtually impossible to screw up.

I've used a box/guide over a lathe to make fluted and reeded legs for decades; however, if I were doing it today, I would probably use a trim router. I think the attached images are self-explanatory, but feel free to ask questions.

I believe the substrate would be a single pine (or possibly oak) board which is veneered with a single leaf of veneer. The plinth is all wrong and has been replaced/added to at some stage. I suspect the applied moulding on the panel was added at the same time to jolly it up to Victorian tastes.

You could pour some of the white spirit back into the shellac once it's been disolved in meths. Up to 10% is useful for retarding the drying rate when brushing shellac on large areas like table tops, or for any job in hot weather. Commercial retarders contain just turps subs.

The actual 'box' measures 36" wide x 28-1/2" high x 21" deep. Overall height is 34-3/4". The drawers are 4-3/4", 5-3/4", 7" and 8".

I'm just off to bed now (it's ironic, Australia is nine hours 'ahead' of you), but I'll get the dimensions of that chest for you in the morning.

I may be mistaken, but asking "... how a chest of draws is made traditionally" the OP may well have been using two or three hundred year old nomenclature – 'draw' was the term used for what we now call a drawer. So, if I'm on the right track and you do want to know how a chest of draws is made...

In my experience, honing is essential and only takes moments. I wrote a little about it here. http://pegsandtails.wordpress.com/2011/01/21/making-mouldings-from-scratch/

According to the Knew web site, what differentiates the woodworker's saw is the un-painted handle!

No, nothing special. I make my cutters from recycled saw blades which are filed and/or ground square.

Cross-grain moulding is something I enjoy doing, but as others have said, tear out is always a possibility. Depending on the wood, either a lubricant or a solidifier often helps. Lubricants can be anything from washing-up liquid, meths, or white spirit – or a combination. Solidifiers can be...

Carpet/flooring/DIY stores sell it by the metre (up to 3m wide) as a non-slip solution for rugs on shiny wooden floors etc. I bought a metre of it for less than a pre-packaged 'router mat'. I use it for drawer liners to stop carving chisels etc. wandering around.

I currently have a pair of the excellent TFWW holdfasts which can be beaten into the bench unmercifully. Before I retired, I had some equally good holdfasts made by a springworks. Surely some of you blokes in the Midlands could sort out a springworks to make a batch for forum members...