Recent content by Wiley Horne

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  1. W

    How flat does the glass need to be for scary sharp?

    Hello all, Just one small point. Float glass. Float glass is not a specialty glass. All window glass is float glass. That's how they make it. English man named Pilkington invented the process back in the 1950's. Everywhere you look, you see float glass. If you google 'float glass', you...
  2. W

    Second Hand Bargains?

    Hi Vann, You've provided solid information to the OP, so I will stop my speculations. To answer your question about steel vs. rubber in the war years, my only information is from the Hyperkitten type study, and pertains only to US made planes. That study shows a Type 17 Stanley, made from...
  3. W

    Second Hand Bargains?

    Just as a point of curiosity, do you see Made in England Stanley planes, made post-WWII and with brass adjustment knobs. If there was a return to brass knobs post-war, in the English marked planes, then that would perhaps place your plane in a tighter time bracket and closer to the war years...
  4. W

    Second Hand Bargains?

    Hello rxh, You had a good day of hunting! The Stanley plane type studies I am aware of refer to US made planes. However, the US studies may be of some help... The blue bed and hardwood (non-tropical) handle are unique to Type 20 US planes, made between 1962 and 1967. Here is the full...
  5. W

    Screws for the fence of my moving fillester

    Here in the US, the screw you are looking for is called a 'flat fillister head, slotted', or in our vernacular, 'slotted cheese head' screw. The style is readily found in a machine screw, but is a specialty item in wood screws. The regular fillister head is domed, so one has to specify 'flat'...
  6. W

    Sole flat enough?

    Hi Ali, You want the leading edge of the mouth to be showing the same scratches (be in the same plane) as the outer edges of the sole. Then it's done. Hollow places in the interior of the sole are no problem--but the leading edge of the mouth needs to be sitting right on the work. Wiley
  7. W

    Behavior of the dull (?) blade (bevel up vs. bevel down?)

    No, hardness does not correlate 1:1 with longevity. Abrasive inclusions like silica, as you have said, are a bigger factor. But hardness does matter--note difference between American cherry and canary wood. And it particularly matters when you're attacking at a high angle. As you go from an...
  8. W

    Behavior of the dull (?) blade (bevel up vs. bevel down?)

    I don't understand how this procedure would change anything. If I hone until a burr is raised and then work the back (with the ruler trick) until a burr is raised then haven't I removed any worn area? Adrian, I should have mentioned this before, but we are comparing a plane attacking at 45...
  9. W

    Behavior of the dull (?) blade (bevel up vs. bevel down?)

    Hi Adrian, My experience is that if a plane 'just stops cutting'--meaning downward pressure won't hold it in the cut--then you're out of clearance angle. With the bevel up plane (unless it's a Holtey 98), the plane will be bedded at 12 degrees, which means you have a max. of 12 degrees of...
  10. W

    The Concave Cambered Blade

    Adrian, Read no further if you do not use a sharpening jig.... If you do use a sharpening jig, it could be that the blade is being deformed while sharpening. Or that the blade has a concavity or convexity which is being pressed flat during sharpening. Or that the sharpening jig is exerting a...
  11. W

    Why a coffin shape?

    Hi All, An extension of this thought is why was the coffin shape carried forward into infill smoothers (e.g., the A5). Ed's sense that aesthetics govern may be right. The infill being a heavier plane, however, the coffin shape changes the balance. The A5 has a center of gravity which is...
  12. W

    Primus improved smoothing plane

    Colin, Check the blade's bedding. When the blade is installed and tightened up, the blade back should be supported by the two metal studs at the top of the bedding, and the arris of the blade (where the bevel begins) should be solid against the ramp, at the mouth opening. Can you get a feeler...
  13. W

    Gouges - American Measurements to English Conversion?

    Hi Chems, Here is a pretty useful discussion of gouges, from Tools for Working Wood: http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merc ... guide.html Note in the discussion of sweeps, the difference between the English (Sheffield) and Continental systems, as discussed above by Argus. A Sheffield...
  14. W

    Thumb screws

    Good show, Ed! Very impressive. Wiley
  15. W

    blue spruce marking knives

    Hi Andy, Something you might try is to pull the edge toward you across the stone. Rather than push. I do this with marking knives, particularly the smaller ones. Hold the knife in position with one hand, and put the forefinger of the off-hand right on the tip of the blade. In this position...
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