Recent content by simonridout

My apologies, I did not take in the desire for headroom. However it raises another question - what is limiting the height, presumably the existing garage ceiling or roof, can this be used to support the new false ceiling?

I have used home made I beams, using two of 2400 X 300 mm 11mm OSB, with 50 X 25 X 4800 mm battens glued and nailed each side top and bottom. It could support my weight, 85Kg, mid span, without apparent deflection. Used similarly to your proposed use, to support a light weight ceiling only...

I second the mattock, however I prefer one with two blades, at right angles, rather than a blade and spike. That way it can chop roots or define the side of a trench. https://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-5lb-mattock-36-/85777. Weight is your friend when using it.

I have used 18 mm thick rubber stable mats directly onto concrete in an old cattle barn. They are 6’ X 4’ each so plenty of friction to stop them moving once down. They cope with an uneven floor, rolled concrete with undulations and the occasional larger defect. A bit of a handful to lay single...

3-4 years ago, I bought a dewalt plunge/track saw. I came with the blade fitted backwards! I figured it out when it cut slowly with lots of smoke! Since I changed the blade round it has been excellent.

Thank you. The cross lines are an artefact. Until I see the worktop ‘in the flesh’ I will not know if the edges are rounded or not, it may well depend upon the batch in store. If slightly rounded, I will consider planning 2-3 mm off to get a square edge or pay more for oak if it has a square edge!

I am planning to redo my kitchen, fitting an engineered beech worktop, made of small blocks glued together, held with worktop clamps. I am unsure as to if a butt joint or a mitre joint is best, any suggestions please. I have been receiving conflicting advice, so far. Thank you Simon Clamps...

Also consider some kwikstage scaffolding. Can be put up singlehanded but easier with two. Rock solid when erected. While not ideal for a quick inspection type job, ideal for repointing etc.

It becomes more difficult with a random stone wall. I often have to chose the stone carefully, sandstone is good, flat granite hard drilling but ok, rounded, river washed stones difficult as the drill will skid sideways and of course avoid the lime mortar. Often the answer is to fit a wood...

I have recently made a pair of doors, each using two 11 mm OSB skins. I put 150 X 50 pieces ‘inside the sandwich’ where the hinges were going, a 150 X 50 across the middle, as strength for the lock, a Arbus van lock and then 100 X 50 backing pieces top and bottom for security bolts, before...

In my experience, stable mats smooth out a rough agricultural concrete floor, i.e. mostly level to within 5mm and some bigger holes or gouges. In my case, damp was not an issue as already inside a building and tested by laying a plastic sheet for several weeks with no moisture showing underneath.

I have 18 mm stable matting with a fine diamond pattern, in 6' X 4' sheets. Heavy but manageable to lay singlehanded and cuts with a sharp Stanley knife. Once laid, heavy enough not to want to move. I used quattrorubberandresin.co.uk because they were near enough to collect, rather than have...

Thank you. No sign of the pin. However, on further inspection, I realised that there were no bolts fixing the fence attachment bar to the table either side of the blade slot. Putting bolts into these tapped holes so that the fence attachment bar is fixed to the table at four points, reduces...

My local Men's shed in West Cumbria has just the person to help you, very good at restoring and setting up old tools, just a bit OCD about it! I would be surprised if your local shed did not have his twin brother!

Deema Thank you for your reply and your excellent restoration posts, which have been very helpful. I probably did not explain my problem well enough. The table and blade are perpendicular, as shown. The problem is that the table is not flat across the front edge. A 0.40 mm feeler gauge can...