I recently invested in a Jessem table saw miter fence. Apart from being accurate it will clamp the wood and cut to a stop up to 46". A stop is essential in my view - it stops the wood sliding laterally as well.
Ideally a quality miter fence on the table saw set to 45 degrees. Check that the blade is perfectly at 90 to the table with a digital inclinometer and the wood should be clamped down.
Failing that either option on the miter saw will work but again the wood should be clamped down.
I had a look around and the Maple / Taiwanese cutters seem to have disappeared. They were commonplace last time I looked.
www.fine-tools.com will sell you some very expensive cutters - beautifully made German tools.
For the OP the trick with threadcutting is precision. Drill the recommended...
I've got a set going from 1/2 " up to 1 1/4 " . Can't remember where I bought them but they are surprisingly useful. They are all maple and seem to come out of the same factory in Taiwan. I use the 1" to attach a pedestal leg to Shaker candle stands and they are rock solid. It's worth investing...
Getting professional results is difficult without the correct tools. A picture framer will typically use a miter cutter and underpinning machine to join perfect miters together. As an amateur I think should achieve good results with a small table saw using a jig for the miters. It would also...
Cheers. You have probably checked out Wealden who do a full bullnose up to 32mm ( 16 mm radius ) Remember that you can get ' shallow ' bullnose bits mainly made in China. They rout part of a circle and look absolutely fine. I ordered a few and have no problems with them.
A dedicated bullnose bit will do a far better job. You will have to decide on the finished thread thickness and whether it's worth buying a bit for a one off job. For a 33 mm thickness thread you will need a 16.5 mm radius bit or slightly over - 17 mm would be ideal. Take the cut with a few...
I don't like chemicals so I would suggest a 3M paint and varnish stripper wheel. Use it in a lathe or drill. It does a brilliant job although your workshop will soon resemble a sandstorm in the Sahara. :giggle:
As long as your bandsaw has the capacity a sled is the safest method. I made a sled once which clamped the log front to back and ran in the miter slot . It worked fine but was a bit heavy. As I had a lot of garden trees to convert I ordered the ' Little Ripper ' from www.stockroomsupply.com in...
The spirit stain has soaked into the endgrain by capilliary action. Pine is not a easy wood to stain. It's alternate hard and soft grain take up stain unevenly. Poplar would be a better choice. You will get a far better result with spirit stain by spraying it - you can do several coats in one...
Just watched ' Master and Commander ' last night and realized what tough old 'salts ' those men were. I'm beyond all that now .........just imagine if we could come back in the next life. :rolleyes: