Recent content by Quadie

Will do. I'll make a new thread, hopefully that way more people can find it. Keith.

Chris, The blocks I used were new, fully planed and had a mini chamfer along all edges so they didn't need sanded. I had used a floor sander in the past and didn't do a great job, some real dodgy gouges at the edges where I started. But there's some good advice on here for alternatives so I'd...

I have recently completed a similar project. I bought new parquet blocks but other than that I have probably made enough mistakes to have an answer for most of your questions. Although Hanser had no issues with No Nails, I used Lecol 5500 which was a godsend. I started the project as a...

Thanks for the help everyone. I'll be modifying the design I think but a quick prototype could be in order. I'll let you know how I get on. K.

Or maybe allow the boards to go all the way to the bottom of the door instead of rebated into the bottom rail? I was worried that the sealant would restrict movement but if there was only a small amount used... Worth a thought.

The reason for the shiplap is so that it matches the cladding and I can buy it without having to size it myself, tbh. From what you're saying, if I still want to use the matching cladding for the T&G I'd be best re-thinking my door design. I like the look of the door but I've probably based it...

Cheers, Matt. Although it's the outer edges of the boards I'm worried about, where they sit in the rebate. Could water work it's way in around the side without sealing it in some way?

Come on guys. 107 views and no one is weighing in. You'll only have yourself to blame when this door leaks and I'm getting it from SWIMBO! :wink:

This month (if the monsoon season passes) I will be recladding a small extension at the back of the house. It will be done in Western Red Cedar shiplap and I want to make a new door to match. I have looked through all the archives here and couldn't quite find the answer to my question so I was...

Thanks for this, Siggy - and sorry for the late reply. Really wish I'd asked the question ages ago as I have had a few projects with cladding involved and butting the T&G tight together never ends up with a nice finish after a bit of time / movement. A bit of spacing will used on the new...

Looking good so far and I'll be watching this one closely as I need to build doors of a similar style myself. I've seen a couple of posts on here where doors have been built in this style and I was wondering how you combat or compensate for movement in the 'cladding' part between the frame...

Hello all, Over the last couple of years I have been fitting parquet flooring. The living room and dinning room have been completed and I am ready to do the hall. Unfortunately, due to the time gap between the two projects (funds / time available) the company I first ordered from no longer...

Cheers for that. Funny you mention those dimensions. This post had been up for a ood while with plenty of views and no replies some I had already gone ahead and made the decision my self (like the big brave boy I am). For the sides approx. 3" and the ends approx. 9" The rule of thirds. I'll...

Luckily I used the underside of the rail as the starting point (sizes from the Collins Woodworking Manual) and went up from there. This determined the length of the legs and not the other way around. Phew. Now I just need to widen all the doorways before the in-laws come round from Christmas... K.

Ollie, I ended up doing the same and doing it by eye. 60mm from the outside of the table leg and 70mm ish from the rail. Looks alright so far but time will tell. The rails are also 100mm deep but with plenty of clearance. It's my first project so I'm trying to find the fine line between not...