Recent content by profchris

Is the item slightly rough to the touch? Danish oil can raise the tiny fibres left by sanding. If so, very lightly dust off the roughness with a scotch pad or fine abrasive. Then apply another coat or two. You won't get a shine if it's not smooth.

How about this as an approach, dealing with the (I'm sure correct) information about pressure and also your deep fears of a watery apocalypse: Flush toilet Open one or more taps Open stopcock fully. If the kitchen tap is open, you'd see if flow suddenly increased. The pressure information...

I thought everyone knew that you place the blade under a pyramid at new moon so that the etheric vibrations can reshape the edge to ultimate sharpness. Blade angle is determined by orientation to the applicable holy city (see manual, terms and conditions apply).

It looks as if almost all the finish has been absorbed, leaving nothing on the surface. Find an inconspicuous spot and apply a couple more thin coats. I googled polyx gloss images, and the floors in those are definitely shiny!

From my instrument finishing experience (though none with Osmo) I'd say you need more than one coat to get a gloss finish. Everything I've used (shellac, nitro lacquer, oil varnish, TruOil) gives at best a matt sheen with just a single coat. If you inspect the surface closely you'll see that...

Ah, that helps. And I'm assuming the curvature was still there when you glued up the box? If so, unlikely to be a humidity shrinkage issue unless it's in the UK equivalent of a desert (eg central heating set really high). In that case, get inside with a light and inspection mirror (or a phone...

Don't waste your time trying to restore the doming to the top. You locked in the geometry when you glued on the bracing, and more so when you closed the box of the body. The top will expand widthways in higher humidity and some dome will come back. It will shrink with lower humidity - worst case...

What thickness? Guitar wood usually comes at around 6 mm rough sawn, to be planed down to 2.5mm or so. For thicker boards you might contact Thorogoods, just N of Clochester so fairly close to you. I'm sure they sell spruce. You'll want to pick through their stock, which is what you have to ask...

Two possible reasons. The glue introduces moisture and the wood moves. Or you've clamped it up with a slight bow, so it holds that after drying. I'd clamp to a flat stable surface, like a workbench, table top, or a 2 x 4 on edge and leave clamped up for 24 hours.

Oil will darken it somewhat - try on scrap to see if you like the effect. If not, a water based varnish shouldn't change the colour much, but I don't like the look of those varnishes - again, a trial pot to use on scrap is sensible, and cheap compared to the effort you're putting in to making...

If you do try recycling wood, make sure you're not buying veneer over softwood. If in doubt try to lift a corner of the piece - solid sides/tops are a lot heavier.

I'd be up to my local auction house to see if any ugly Victorian mahogany wardrobes are in the cheap section (my local runs two in parallel, antiques and 'stuff'). If you find one, it might be under £20. A charity shop would also be worth a look, though they charge more! Of course you'll need to...

Possibly even BA screws - 3BA is close. When tracking down replacement tuner screws for an old British made banjo I eventually found they were 6BA - I have metric, UNF and BSF similar sizes as a by-product. Ebay vendors seem to have 6 or 10 packs of every possibility for a pound or two each.

I think that however you cut the veneer for those corners, you'll have visible lines where the pieces meet because the grain lines can't all run horizontal and meet up at the join(s). Your grain will be angled somewhere. Is an option to paint the corners and paint on grain lines, matching the...

Not quite. It's the seller who is liable as you describe. Manufacturer is liable to its buyer, and so on down the line, but not with the consumer protections in place except for the final consumer. The warranty is a separate contract which needs to be accepted by registering if that's the deal...