Recent content by ol_london

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  1. O

    Having trouble with wood finishes…hardwax oils vs varnish

    Thanks. I like the principle but no customer I’ve met can be bothered to oil a table, especially that often. When they buy one from John Lewis or IKEA they don’t have to oil it.
  2. O

    Having trouble with wood finishes…hardwax oils vs varnish

    I’ve made a few kitchen tables for people over the past year out of solid European oak. All great until a couple have come back to me because the finish is not holding up to stains like grease marks and liquid etc. I’ve been using Fiddes clear satin hardwax oil which is similar to Osmo. I’m...
  3. O

    Are there any golden rules for making solid and stable tables?

    Hi. Sorry I’m not good at inches. The top is 25mm. I could easily cut 25mm blocks say 70mm square to glue under each of the leg positions. I could then ‘mortise’ the leg through that combined 50mm forming a tight 360 degree grip around the top of the leg. Glue/epoxy for extra tightness. Legs...
  4. O

    Are there any golden rules for making solid and stable tables?

    The wood legs he wants are round tapered 45mm top to 35mm bottom so feel it would be tricky to box them in like that. Maybe a short threaded rod going right into a 50mm top block with epoxy and through some of the leg may work.
  5. O

    Are there any golden rules for making solid and stable tables?

    Very interesting. What do you think the minimum height apron would be that would stop a dining size version shaking? If I mad an apron that was 4cm high it may not be too visible of set back? Would that hold it tight do you think?
  6. O

    Are there any golden rules for making solid and stable tables?

    I wasn’t going to use those angled metal mounting plates that take a threaded rod because I have seen them wobble when used any higher than a coffee table.
  7. O

    Are there any golden rules for making solid and stable tables?

    I’m not sure why it would warp, the oak is kiln dried and it’s only 75cm wide. Do you think adding battens or a hidden apron (say 2cm thick well set back) would stop that.
  8. O

    Are there any golden rules for making solid and stable tables?

    You mean connecting the legs diagonally?
  9. O

    Are there any golden rules for making solid and stable tables?

    Thanks. By steel core, do you mean something running through the leg like a rebar, up into the top? Not sure I get it.
  10. O

    Are there any golden rules for making solid and stable tables?

    Thanks. Actually I am thinking this too. To make a mounting plate out of the same oak 25mm glued on which gives me 50mm thick base in total to forstner a 45 diameter ‘mortise’. Glue and screw the legs through that and it’s a bit like an apron...sort of.
  11. O

    Are there any golden rules for making solid and stable tables?

    I have been asked to make a dining table with quite thin wooden legs (45mm diameter) but no visible apron or stretchers. They want to copy a look they have seen online It’s going to be a challenge to make a table that doesn’t wobble. Table is 140 x 75cm, oak. It has made me wonder are there any...
  12. O

    Span between brackets for birch ply shelf

    Great point. Only it’s a new build and not sure if the studs are metal...I think they probably are. Cheap and easy for the developers but how can you hang stuff??
  13. O

    Span between brackets for birch ply shelf

    This is interesting, I’ve never heard this rule. So over 2m, 1/5 is 40cm and you are saying: 40cm in from edge, then 3/5 is 120cm, then 40cm. Would that not look unbalanced? Or maybe I am not understanding..
  14. O

    Span between brackets for birch ply shelf

    I’m planning some quite deep and long shelves in 24mm birch ply and would appreciate advice on the span for brackets please... if I get it wrong it’s going to be an expensive mistake. The main problem is the wall is plasterboard. The plan is for 2m long and 25cm deep 24mm ply shelf. Not sure...
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