Recent content by Mike77

I'll let you know when it arrives, as I'm a complete beginner myself... I've got some software called Mach3 to run the thing. I've been trying to get my head round it before the machine gets here. There seem to be some good tutorial videos on the software company's site and on Youtube. I can't...

I think the buy it now price was £530, or something like that. I made an offer of £450 which they rejected and finally got it for £480. The shipping is the killer though, £250! It is a bit of a trek from HK I suppose. I was thinking of bidding on Ting-Tong, but it was 'buyer collects' and...

I decided to buy myself a little Christmas present this year: http://www.jinlantrade.com/ebay/3040t/IMG_15.jpg Due to a few problems with customs in Hong Kong, it hasn't arrived yet. According to DHL, it's now on its way. If folks are interested, I'll post some photos and let you know how I...

I tried various methods today to avoid burn marks routing a cove on the lid of an oak box. I tried various speeds, too slow and it ripped oat loads, too quick....more burning. Found moving the work piece quicker across the cutter and managed to keep the marks to a minimum but still had dark...

Thanks Roger, that makes sense now. I'll have a look at the Axminster one then. They seem to have a good reputation. I popped in to their branch near Sittingbourne. I had to leave quickly before I spent any more money :shock:

Thanks for the replies chaps. I'm a bit confused about the whole thing. Am I right in thinking a thicknesser is for reducing the dimensions of rough sawn timber and a planer is for smoothing the faces to a nice finish? So the axminster machine will do both for me? Sorry for being dim - glad...

Dibs, the site seems to suggest it does both: "A powerful and easy tool from surface planing to thicknessing. Integrated built-in dust collection system (patented)."

I see that B&Q have reduced their MacAlister planer / thicknesser to £132 from £189. I'm normally dubious about B&Qs own brand power tools, but the reviews on their website seem quite complimentary. Anyone got experience of this one? Seems a good price...

OBJ, I wish I had mitred the corners as well. Don't know why I didn't really. I think I just wanted to make sure I got a good fit length wise because it took ages to get the inlay strips to fit nicely in the first place. I cut them on the table saw and it was a pipper sanding them to get them to...

Chems, no, the marks I'm talking about are the one that look like smears of glue toward the bottom of the leg. If it is glue, I know I didn't put it there. I've tried sanding that leg again and they wouldn't shift. It's almost as if it's been bleached. They don't show up so much on the photo...

I managed to finish my table today. I went with the turn button suggestion to attach the top and it worked really well. I learned a lot making it and will avoid a few mistakes on the next project. I used Danish oil to finish it and really pleased with the result. The only problem was that...

By the way... OPJ what timber is the table in your photo made from? It's got nice bold grain.

Thanks for all the advice chaps, much appreciated. I only had a couple of hour this afternoon so I routed some slots on the face side of the rails. I have inlayed some thin strips of Iroko which I am going to stain darker before I glue them. OPJ - I like the idea of the turn buttons. I've not...

I started making a small(ish) table from oak today. It went well despite some problems not being able to get a deep enough cut for the mortices with my router... I'm going to have a bash at the top tomorrow but need some advice before I ruin the outrageously expensive oak I bough for it...

I finished the box today... Plugging the mis-drilled holes with dowels worked a treat so the lid is now square with the rest of the box. It looks nice finished with boiled linseed oil, but I noticed the top is warping. I'm thinking the lid might be too thin which has caused the warping. Or...