Recent content by mathias

I do not agree the way I use it. One has to pay attention with blades from 5 1/2 and up (>60mm) to stay on the Atoma (75mm wide). I do not camber more then I can achieve with thumb pressure and knock of corner freehand For scrub plane camber I alternate thumb pressure and a raiser under one...

Thea reasons I choose this are that it seemed to be good in general, very good at narrow (see photo and could take the N°80 scarper blade (photo @35°)

two (bad) photos to show

I use the Kell with big wheels on Atoma diamond stones and a last touch with scary sharp at different angles. I do not agree that it is difficult to setup at all once you have the angles you want and make a stop block to repeat them. Though one need to be careful when sharpening wide plane...

I'm not a professional woodworker, no woodworking education. What I do I have learned here and elsewhere on the net. I use a smaller plane with camber for the hard work, a N°3 or N°4 for 80-90% of the work. The N°6 juste the last touch for final flatness.

Masonite is wood only (wood fibres and lignin) and is a type of hardboard. Apparently hardboard could also be made from paper in the UK. I'd say Masonite is underrated and could in many situations replace OSB, MDF and even plywood. As it is wood only it is easy to recycle so maybe even though...

Masonite? ... and why is there so little talk about it? It can be made without additives or if some has been added it is not even close to what you find in mdf, plywood etc... A lot of energy is used to make it, so that is negative but everything else is environment good I believe.

So then you are comparing two different angles then, right? If so, then sure the buffed one will hold better/longer. What if the unbuffed one is sharpened to the same (estimated) angle as the buffed one?

I'm still not 100% what you are comparing. As I read you prepare two chisels exactly the same way and then you add a buffing that rounds the bevel a little to one of them?

I understood that the diamond/corian (first picture at 27,2 degrees) didn't hold up as well as the buffed edge (picture 3). Is this not the case?

A couple of things: The 1micron diamond/corian: how precise is it (what are the spec/tolerance ? What does the finished surface look like?)? Is the buffed angle really the same as the diamond/corian because when I make a cutout of the 27,2 degree angle and put on the photo of the buffed I get...

Ok then, thank you for helping me out! So then it is soft wood and if the meter I used is correct the wood is a little too humid...

At wood-database.com the say "a faint, resinous odor while being worked". Mine have a very strong odor. Here is a photo

After sitting for a year in a outdoor climate shed the strong fruity smell is gone. I plan to use the wood for a bench that will also serve as tool storage so I took the most twisted one for the shorter pieces, cut and started to plane to thickness. The fruity smell is now replaced by a strong...

Thanks for your responses. Why take it of? To use some of the built in features it has to come of though I'm not yet sure I will ever use theme....