• We invite you to join UKWorkshop.
    Members can turn off viewing Ads!

Recent content by Luke Barnard


Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

  1. L

    Dutch tool chest

    Morning. I used these and was happy with them: Fine Shank Rose Heads | Old House Store I expect they can be found cheaper, but this store was just round the corner from me. I know there are quite a few sellers of cut nails on etsy too.
  2. L

    Men In Sheds

    I think projects that can be done in an evening/afternoon, whilst also teaching some useful skills are good for new starters. More involved projects can become overwhelming and frustrating. For example, making a set of hardwood coasters starting with rough lumber. With something like this, you...
  3. L

    Tool chest hardware supplier

    I made a Dutch tool chest 18 months ago. I used the 9 inch arrow end pewter T hinges from here: Hand Forged Hinges I've been happy with the hinges, and the company were easily to deal with. I also found another supplier of similar products (Black T Hinges | The Rustic Merchant's range of...
  4. L

    Reclaimed scaffold board finishing advise

    Well, I'm not really saying this is the way it *should* be done. But I do know this is how at least one of the wood recycling projects finishes it's scaffold furniture (I volunteered there for a bit), and their products certainly fit the "rustic" bill. You could be right that similar results...
  5. L

    Reclaimed scaffold board finishing advise

    Yes, as Marco just mentioned, you sand up to 120 grit, apply twice (brush on and wipe off), and then give a light sand with 1200 grit. It does soak into the wood, and the light sand with 1200 grit doesn't really remove any material, just knocks off the rough nibs from the oil curing and buffs...
  6. L

    Reclaimed scaffold board finishing advise

    I know that several of the wood recycling projects that make furnitue out of reclaimed scaffold board use the Osmo products for finishing. To finish they sand to 120 grit, brush on a thin coat of Osmo oil and wipe off. They apply two coats and then rub down with 1200 grit paper. At that point...
  7. L

    Butt joint in long boards

    Hey, You could aim to make the faces complimentary rather than each being bang on square. If you have the space either side of the saw, you could clamp both within the blade kerfs distance of each other. Then when you cut through them they should match well even if they are not each perfectly...
  8. L

    Planing to 3mm tips

    I would put a wide strip of masking tape on the back of the board, and another piece of masking tape on the bench, and then superglue the faces of the masking tape on the board and bench together. It holds well while planing, and then is easy to peel off when done. Worth doing a test to make...
  9. L

    Gauge blocks

    I was in a similar position recently, and ended up buying a set of different sized parallel keys, which serves my purposes well enough. I can't post links. But if you search "60 Pcs Imperial Parallel Key Assortment" on ebay, it should get you there. They do a metric set as well, if that is...
  10. L

    Mitre lock bit

    I typed this before I read Porkers response, and now realise I've added nothing new! Whoops, sorry.
  11. L

    Mitre lock bit

    Hello, I'm new here, but have used a lock-mitre bit to make a few boxes. I also initially had problems with a scary amount of juddering, particularly for the member that has to be held vertically against the fence. Similar to you, I had set the router speed to the lowest setting, 8000rpm. Two...