Recent content by kenledger

Look like a good project with a good out come for machining metal. Reminded me of when bought a Myford, looked small enough but bloody heavy. Two of us really struggle to get it into the van.

Not sure if it still available but you used to be able to book a pallet and load it with what ever as long as it did not fall outside of the pallet. They wrapped it with tough plastic and shrunk it. I had a Dewalt radial arm saw delivered from up north somewhere for £30.00.

What is the RPM of the motor? I have a bench sander that 300mm and it is quite slow. A normal electric motor is around 1450 RPM if i remember right, that not to say it can't be stepped down though.

Going by eye is not very accurate, it' ok as a starting point, you would still need a clock to get the work piece really true. 0.1 mm is 4 thou to me (yes i am old) you should get it to 1 thou or zero with a clock.

Going back to you betting a piece of work to run true after taking it out of the Jaws. You do not say how you are remounting it. We used DTI's or clocks, you could get the work piece true that way. When it gets to 2, 3 though you would just tighten the side where it was running low, never...

Yes swept bends are always best for air flow but as you say i am tight for space plus M/B bends seem non existant.

I have a dust hood in 4in from Axminster and want to come off of it real quick at 90 degrees. Ideally with a male female fitting, but i can find one !! I have looked at plastic waste pipe but that size is 110mm. I am also thing of a toilet pan fitting that is in M/F elbow, the pan fitting is...

For good engineering tools theres Buck & Hickman https://uk.rubix.com/en/search/?text=files. B&H are good but can be expensive Chronos Engineering Tools, Engineering Supplies lathe and workshop tools. they maybe close to you, they have a catalogue like an encyclopedia !!

What about Acid etched rattle can it would give the surface someting for the top coat to adhere to.

I would stay away from Oxy&Da, might affect house insurance. For trailer repairs a mig will be best but stay away from "gasless".

Brazing is using a brass filler rod, but you need a flux powder with the filler rod. You can get rods that are coated with flux which is easier but you have to careful not to knock the flux off the rod. It keeps the air out of the joint your working on. Generally you would use Oxy&DA gasses...

Gas and gasless welding. Welding with gas is pretty obvious, essentially gas is delivered via a ceramic shroud around the weld site. This is to keep the air away otherwise you wind up with a metal aero bar. Gasless is a misnomer, there is no such thing as gas less welding, the wire you weld with...

Not sure if this of any help https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/lathe-chuck-and-faceplate.109828/

I used to steel melting furnaces, the inductors that hung off them had aligning pins, 2in diameter, We used 6ft long scaffold pipes each side to tap the hole. That was the biggest tap i have ever seen lol

I went into the toolroom in 1968, started in in sheet metal in 66. After tool room went into the drawing office. I was happiest in the tool room though, i learnt so much in there.