Recent content by jimi43

Well now....three years on almost to the day and a 10 month waiting list. Seems there are some out there who recognise English hand crafted saws when they see them. Congratulations Shane and Jaq....well deserved! Now...about Mallard No.6

Hi Joe Glad to be of help.. Just make sure that everything is very clean...and the internal (not the faces of the pulley!!) are properly lubricated with white grease and then it should work well. Unfortunately the design needs regular maintenance as the dust gets in and fouls it all up again...

Hi Joe Not sure what plastic cover you mean but if you mean the plastic cover on the other side of the motor then you don't take that off. Go back through the pictures and follow the disassembly instructions taking care to take pressure off the spring as stated and remove the separate parts of...

Send Ian at Tuffsaws exactly what you have written here and he will advise the best for your application. He has never steered me wrong. Also Steve Maskery's excellent bandsaw setup DVD is a must if you want to get the best out of your saw...it's worth its weight in gold...

Beech Mike. John...the only input is a Mini-USB Port (supports composite A/C cable/3.5 stereo mic adapter) Other than that...I have no idea...I only wanted to use the internal mic but I will be adding a mic later when I use it in the studio. Cheers Jim

I thought I would have a play with a new GoPro camera I bought...the ideas are endless... (turn the sound down a bit...) https://youtu.be/OQsFo5xXHBA Cheers Jimi

I milled a channel to the rear of the edge and then put a bevel on the front wall...then I bent the 3mm steel in a Record vise... It closes up flat when tight... Check out a video I just posted on here...using the GoPro Hero 4 camera mounted on the side... It will give you confidence in...

Liam brings up a good point about the pressure of the cap iron and I did a lot of research on this. I adopted a fixed (not two part) Clifton style milling the rear of the face of the cap iron and then bevelling the leading edge ridge. You can see this in my article on the build but if you need...

WOW! You can't BELIEVE how deja vu this all is...and mate..the first IRON I cut the centre slot by hand 2mm out too!!! That is one hell of a lot worse than only having to redo the cap iron mate! So I feel your pain...but not as much as I could...you came out lightly! I have no idea how it...

On "Richard" I simply drilled holes in the sides..countersank the holes but shallow and fitted screws so that only the part without the slot was below the surface and then filed off the tops. Worked well. If you need to remove them again...you drill out the screw..use a screw extractor to remove...

Yes...I think this type of adjuster will work better with the "Bailey" type cap because it is nowhere near as tight as a lever cap. I can't see anything with a fine thread working with a lever cap tightened enough to lock down the iron.....that is the inherent problem because the coarser you...

That'll work Richard....does it work with full clamp down on the lever cap? Jim

Great project Mark...and I will be following it closely now i know it's here. Firstly...adjuster...I have sat on the fence regarding the "Norris" adjuster for a long while..in the hope I would find one I actually liked. Well..having just bought an A71 with a near pristine adjuster with...

Yes..on the XXF ones including the metal backed Dia-Sharp extra fine...I use water with a spot of washing liquid too....for the very same reason. The rest are fine dry..just blow the dust away outside.

Darn...I thought as much. Ok..looks like plan B then...angle piece of bronze milled. I will probably work out cleaner that way anyway. Thanks for the response mate..I have to say that coffin smoother looks well cast indeed! J