Recent content by JesseM

I don't know if this helps, but I've read that when shaping to not worry about the fleam angle and just concentrate on shaping the tooth, Then when sharpening apply the fleam appropriately.

Very nice =D> Very fine and crisp details. I have a question. On the fence how were you able to get those flat bottom channels. Did you use a mill? I think I ended up using a forstner bit and then cleaning up with a chisel. But I was not able to clear out the recesses made by the bit.

I've only had some experience with some Brazilian Rosewood. Its oily and fairly tame to plane. Like planing butter. It looks like your shavings are a bit thick. I think I was able to get thin shavings but I can't remember. Have you tried backing off on the cutting depth?

Oops you're right :oops: Removes foot from mouth

I was thinking if it could have attached to the side wall that you could turn any bench plane into a rebate, or even add a wood fence of a particular angle for chamfers. But you are probably right about it not fitting.

The fence looks like it could be used on any plane with side walls. You may want to keep it, as it may come in handy some day.

Here are some rounders, somewhat more expensive but looks like they could work well. I have tried contacting them via email, but no success. Since they are your side of the pond you may have more success. The web contact info appears to be knackered :P http://www.ashemcrafts.com

There are ways to minimize tearout. With BD planes you need a higher angle frog or a back bevel. I have an LN 5.5 with the 55 degree frog and it works very well. With BU planes increasing the primary angle on the blade increases the effective cutting angle and reduces tearout. I have a BU...

I usually establish my primary at 30 and a couple of degrees for the secondary. From my understanding the higher the angle the longer the edge is retained. For the scrub, mortise chisels, and cutters for the combis I usually go up to 35 for the primary. I think edge retention for the combis...

I have a few combis and can say that the fence goes on the other side. Notice those 2 adjusting bolts in the way there. That would be an indication. I think most of the combis had a prejudice toward righties. :o I think you could probably get away with referencing off the right hand side...

I am definitely amateur as well. I have had experience with lets see: Southern Yellow Pine, White Pine, Poplar, Soft Maple, Cherry, Red/White Oak, and Bubinga. Oak is funny and similar in behavior to the Bubinga. Bubinga is very hard, and has strange grain. I used a 50 degree bevel on the...

I don't think you will benefit much from camber with BU planes. I think Derek tested this once. Don't quote me on this, but what I have noticed with regards to BU and BD is that as BD planes dull they become harder to push. BU as they dull tend to skip and not take shaving at all. This may...

Yes, using a vise. I think it would hard to not use in a vise. You need the sideways force. Haven't had any problems surfacing. Works a bit easier than my #8. The other advantage being I can thrown in a higher bevel blade to reduce tearout. What kinds of problems are you having with...

I have the fence and jointer. I think I know what you are talking about. I keep my left hand on the fence pressing sideways, and the right hand is pressing down and forward. If you keep that fence registered to the wood you can't help but make it square. Except if the blade is out of whack...

I usually shoot for something between 1900-1940. Mainly because I have a 70's one and it just terrible compared to the oldies. Also some of the oldies have laminated blades which take a really good edge. From what I've heard you look for the irons that are squared off at the top as opposed to...