Recent content by JBaz

Stars! Namby pambies! We couldn't see sky but for smog.

I bought one of these to build a green oak pergola. The 150x 150 green oak stock was too heavy to handle through my planer/thicknesser. The Triton handled the job no problem, although I did have to tape over the thing that stops you putting the planer down flat when the knives are still...

Looks an impressive piece of kit if it can cut 15mm plywood in a single pass. What software are you using to create the images?

On a recent visit to Aldi I came across (and bought) this set of matching left-hand and right-hand twist drill bits along with a hand-held bit-holder. It was purely an "impulse buy" and (like so many other tools I have) I had no particular need for them, but at £6 or so ......... and I...

I bought my last lot of fabric-backed abrasive from Dr Abrasive https://drabrasive.co.uk/emery-cloth-sandpaper/203-8303-100mm-stiff-emery-cloth-sandpaper-roll-deerfos-xa167-p24-240.html#/81-grit-240 At £2.20 per metre it was much cheaper than Axminster and works well.

I would cut them off flush, chisel them back so the joint is within the fascia (and not seen), then either dowel the joint or cut a mortice and tenon (loose tenon?). You might even consider fixing the ends to the board above with a screw in a hole, then plug the hole.

Could work. I have cellulose thinners so I'll try that on a test piece first. My concern is that some chemicals may themselves discolour the brick so I end up having to treat the whole face.

I ha I have some spare bricks that I could try this on. If the cat litter removes the stain (now that it has dried) I will bear it in mind, but as you say, keeping it against the vertical wall and dry could be a challenge.

We tried Brick Acid, but it didn't have any effect on the Sadolin. I understand that it is primarily for mortar stains, which it removes by killing the lime in the mortar.

The decorator has spilt some Sadolin Classic wood stain on the facing brickwork of our house. He wiped it off immediately with white spirit, but it can still be seen. We have tried pressure washing but it hasn't moved. We have also tried acetone and paint remover (on some test bricks I have...

The brick looks fine, but do remember if you are laying them that engineering bricks are non-porous and will not draw water from the mortar like facing bricks. Consequently the mortar stays "squidgy" (technical term) for a long time and will squeeze out if you lay too many courses at once. Most...

I recently joined a wood turning club which owns quite a few Forstner bits, all of which are blunt. I hate blunt tools, so I'd like to "do my bit" and sharpen them. I have have visited the "Hobbyists Oracle" (YouTube) and some say to sharpen what I'll call the face cutting edge (at 90 degrees...

I have just had to cancel my credit card to stop the purchase of a universal grinder on drillpresssales.com going through. I believe this to be a scam site. The site claims to be selling Warco products (a genuine UK company selling machine tools - I have one, so I know them) but the header...

I use Inkscape for the design work (2D) then send the SVG file to the JSCut website which produces the G-code. I have to edit the code to insert the M03 & M05, but that's all. I then use GBRL to control the CNC router. Although it is aimed at the printing market, I find Inkscape can produce...

I have a cheap 3018 "engraver" from Banggood which is just a CNC router. I use Inkscape to create the design and jscut to produce the Gcode. Once the design is routed in the wood I fill the void with wood filler and sand it back to flush before painting/spraying. I guess it would be possible...