Recent content by hlvd

I’ve used this method to square up the radial arm saw at work with a 20” ish square piece of MDF. Surprisingly effective.

Your cuts are too deep.

It’s the pinching that causes that as well.

You don’t own a Table Saw yet here you are lecturing experienced users about operating Table Saws 🤷‍♂️

That sounds like an excellent idea!

I purchased some once but sent them back as I could set the blades more accurately with the traditional two line method.

It was always a Mortise Gauge for marking mortises, and always marked from the Face Side. This was to guarantee flush joints due to the possibility of uneven thickness hand prepared stock. Not so much of a problem with machined stock but still nice to keep up traditions.

Show us his hinge and latch recesses, and the shadow gap, this’ll tell us if he’s a carpenter or not.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285540893028?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=tt4gwySBSd-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Lqa69ktjRIa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I’m beginning to think you have shares in this jig.

I think you’re missing the point here Elisha, you’re dismissing the opinions of people who have many years experience of doing this for a living. I explained in my previous post your jig is perhaps flawed, and even suggested an alternative that might be a better idea.

Nice chisels!

Notice I said unthreaded, as in bolt and nut…

Norm Abram had a small Hitachi resaw he’d use for sawing veneers. It was only the same size as a 12” bandsaw but took a 3” blade.

If they’re just unthreaded holes the nearest sized metric bolt will do.