I checked the drawer dimensions and it is square to within half a mil. The cabinet is good too.
The front to back adjustment seems to be an add-on, would this sort it? Cannot for the life of me see the issue.
For what it’s worth they are - Blum Movento 760H4200B Full-Extension Drawer Guides with...
As per title. Left side holding open by a few mills. If I push it closed it pops back open. Two other drawers are perfect. I don’t have depth adjustment with blumotion. I tried moving the whole left mechanism back but it stil stops short. Any ideas?
So far the best solution has been my Ray Iles ¼" / 6.3mm bevel chisel after drilling some barely overlapping holes with a 5mm wood bit (pillar drill doesn't have the accuracy for even a 6mm bit - Lidl pillar drill has it's limitations!).
I'm going to try a straight cutter on my router table for...
I am very open to hollow chisel morticers, but I don’t own one. Going to try a straight cutter on the router table.
Ps. Why do so many people talk about the OP in the third person? Don’t you usually address the person who asked the question, instead of everyone else in the room?
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I think this is it, I couldn’t get the drill holes close enough to meet, so the ¼” chisel is struggling to remove material going full width. I broke out the side using the 1” chisel, trying to remove the inside long wall of the mortise. They are sharp - 6000 whetstone.
I think if the pillar...
The piece is 25mm thick cherry, with a 7mm mortise needed. 70mm deep for a through-tenon. I have bevel edge chisels (Ray Iles) but it’s taking forever and I blew out the side of the mortise on a (thankfully) test piece.
I have a cheap Lidl pillar drill, I drilled halfway with a hss bit, but...
Thank you. I got the idea for the feet from a george nakashima piece - it’s definitely a Japanese solution. I liked the idea that it supported the 3 metre length at 3 points. There are also two rails that go full length and are held in place by the three feet. I thought 4 traditional legs might...
Thought I’d add some photos of the carcasses for context. I didn’t mention that it was built, and I’m making the partitions now (one glueing up in the photo). And a sketchup view of the finished design.
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That’s it! Thank you. It’s clearly hard to explain though! I will do exactly that. Each door is roughly 570x400mm and I have the frame at 70mm wide - would you suggest I go wider here? My thinking is, if it’s too wide then the frame verticals are prone to movement themselves.
This has turned...
This sounds interesting. Is it different to breadboard ends? Is it where you have a backing board with a sliding dovetail or something to keep it straight but allow for expansion?
Yes I am after a flush panel and frame, but I thought the movement could be allowed for in the handle. You would...
So the inside panel will be tongue and grooved, with the growth rings alternating to minimise cupping.
The Cherry has been in the room since summer. I thicknessed them to rough size a few weeks ago. When I work on the board in the shed, I bring them back to the house when I’m done. But they...
The panel shrinks and expands inside the frame. So where the panel meets the frame you get a gap (or a routed detail to hide the gap). Unless the panel is flat and sits lower than the frame. I want the frame and panel to be flat, with no gaps, and no decoration.
If I just glue it together with...