I scanned all the documents I inherited when I got my ML8 as PNG graphic format files. They're too big to attach to this post, so feel free to message me if you still need them. If you have trouble printing the PNG files, try inserting them in a Microsoft Word document first and size them to...
I've bought a few carbide tools from Simon and a couple more of his from eBay auctions. All have been sturdy and quite forgiving of my novice techniques. I like the Pro Hollowing tool's strength and reach. I got it when the depths I was trying to reach were beyond the safe limits of the Medium...
HappyPixie is still turning. Just got made redundant, though, with minimum payout so I'll have a little more time to turn while I'm applying for a new job. Not the best time to be doing that, though!
Toodlepip!
Steve
Just to back up Richard's comments, there are some very interesting professionals and amateurs all mixed together. Lively banter and sound advice. I thoroughly enjoy it.
Steve
I thought I'd share a recent bowl. Burr oak with a few cavities turned to 3 - 5mm thick and finished in Danish oil. The undercutting was with a Sorby swan neck tool rather than my preferred Simon Hope carbide. The bowl was too big to go inboard on my Myford ML8 and since it was outboard, the...
A friend gave me two bits of freshly cut oak with an intriguing stain down its core. I immediately turned a live edge end grain bowl for him out of the smaller bit and wrapped it in a plastic bag before giving it to him. I've suggested leaving it in the bag for the time being but how can I...
I recently picked up a couple of Brown Mallee burrs (burls?) with the knobbly rounded back (which was under the bark). The harvester obviously sealed the whole thing by dipping it in wax. I want to retain the knobbly back but I want to get rid of the wax. Internet searches have thrown up...
Yorkshire Grit is the abrasive and Hampshire Sheen is the wax finish after you've abraded the surface smooth. I go by their instructions and sand seal the raw wood after 320 grit, then Yorkshire Grit and then Hampshire Sheen. The latter is not too high gloss - in my experience. I also have...
Another printout I created is a visual aid. When I start a bowl, sometimes the grain on the surface makes the use of a wide rim appropriate. In order to get an idea of which ratio of hollow to rim I might like I refer to the PDF below to see what might work. It's just a bunch of different rim to...
Going back to the centre finders. I print my own. You can buy acetate A4 laser printer sheets which were once used for overhead projectors (back in the day). You can buy 5, 10 or 50 sheets on several e-commerce sites for between £5 and £15. I created a document with concentric rings and marked...
Thanks CHJ
Lots to consider.
No I didn't shake the cellulose sealer. Bizarrely, I assumed the gloopiness of it showed that all the good stuff was already in suspension.
I can see how I could have Yorkshire gritted my way through the sealer layer and back to the wood in places. Is a second coat...
I finish most of my items (mostly bowls) with various oils. I found that when I left them to dry on a work surface there could be marks (from the surface) left on my bowl foot. I snapped some lengths of bandsaw blades and cut some perpendicular slots with a thin tenon saw in a rough old plank. A...
Hi folks.
I've obviously lost my way, having spent most of my time in the 'woodturning' section.
I completed a cherry bowl yesterday which I sanded to 320 grit, brushed clean and then applied Chestnut cellulose sanding sealer after I switched the lathe off. I patiently waited the requisite five...
I suspect you've got the original four speeds and that each of these four can have three variations due to the additional pulley system - giving you 12 speeds.
I'd agree with sticking with the motor you've got and giving it some TLC. I took mine off and with a bit of tapping the case, poking...