Recent content by Handworkfan

As far as I know it's pretty much standard practice - and what I still can't get my head round is: is there anybody who, having made a piece, doesn't clean it up with a finely-set hand-plane before applying finish? If we're going to do that, then we might just as well use that stage to get rid...

Of all the solutions, I've found the VCI most convenient - just put a canister - or a piece of the paper - inthe box and forget about it except for remembering to keep the box closed as much as poss to extend the life. I've never got on with the oily rag system - partly because it can be messy...

Not all dovetails of coruse are for drawers - and I don't think I'd want a visible knife-line along the corner of a box or cabinet. but like others I wouldn't want to try and cut precise dovetails without the cut line in which to register the chisel. Each to their own - fair enough - but given...

Impressive - as you say, each to their own - and it's the end product that counts. :) Michael

There's always a degree of cleaning up to do at the end of a job anyway, so taking out the cut-lines just happens as part of that. Like Rob, I like the facility of using feel rather than just sight to get the chisel lined up - a minute error that doesn't show to the eye at that stage can become...

For future reference: use a cutting gauge with a blade - not a pin - I like the wheel-type gauges and Axminster do some reasonably-priced ones. If you set the gauge to a hair less than the thickness of the timber you'll end up with the long grain surface slightly proud of the ends and be able to...

ACtually, i've been feeling just a tad guilty since I started this thread because I should've said that the Wenzloff saw was specifically designed for workign in more delicate material - drawers for jewellery boxes, etc. - and so is thinner and more finely'set than the others, with more TPI. so...

I've finally got round to doing some serious work with my Veritas dovetail saw, and I'm as sick as a very sick person over it :wink: - it actually seems to perform better not only than the lLN but also than my custom-made Wenzloff, and cost less than half the price! So now I'm keeping a weather...

A fretsaw will generally serve best - Classic Hand Tools sell one as used by Rob Cosman on his DVD, and that is fine enough to get into the saw kerf without risk of damaging the tails. If using a coarser coping saw, you can avoid that problem by cutting down the centre fo the waste andn then...

It's hard to avoid some breakout, but it can be minimised and rendered unimportant. Firstly, ensure a razor-sharp chisel - a lot of breakout problems with mallet and chisel are down to the blunt edge and excessive force. Take very light cuts, through to about half-way and turn the timber fairly...

If you're aiming for cabinet making or nice boxes, you need to be discerning in what you buy. Quality is much more important than quantity. I'd say, ensure the ones you have are working as well as they can be - there are endless amounts of books and DVDs around to help with that - try David...

The lines of long grain rarely if ever run perfectly parallel to the surface, and will therefore meet the right-angle end at an angle. This angle needs to be sloping away from the approaching cutter, just as with long-grain. To illustrate the point, try cutting an edge at an angle and then...

Don't bank on it! The fact that the stone's new doesn't guarantee the flatness you want for a fine chisel back.. I'd check it first - pencil-hatch the surface adn rub it on wet-and-dry supported on float glass. I wouldn't be surprised if you find that not all the hatchings disappear at the same...

You've caught me out - using the word 'traditional' to mean 'what I'm used to' - an all-too common error that I normally try to avoid! :lol: I'm only going by what I see in the pics, not having used the tool myself. If people who have don't find it an issue, I'll take their words for it. Maybe...

Generally, I'm a fan of Veritas, with their carefully reasoned innovations - but I'm struggling a bit here. From the ptictures, I gather that the blade one isn't using is sticking up in the air just in the right place to catch a stray finger. From the general appearance, I think I'd feel safer...