Recent content by Graeme48

Thanks for that. Being a well insulated freezer cabinet (at least before I cut holes in it), it holds temperature fairly well but on the basis "10 watts..." quoted above, I am guessing that 40W should be the minimum. If temperature should go above the required 24, the thermostat will shut it...

Apologies for hijacking this thread slightly but here goes. Last year, I built a small kiln from a freezer to dry wood blanks for woodturning. This uses a 40w incandescent bulb for heating & bathroom fan for cooling, both controlled by a thermostatic temperature controller. Being somewhat...

Contrary to all those people building new workshops etc., I’m downsizing my workspace, and selling my trusty Poolewood 28-40; it’s old, built like a tank, relatively noisy but does the job. One owner since new in 1991, new bearings, drive belt and capacitor fitted in mid-2021. Lathe capacity...

Thanks. I'm going to slacken off the bearings a tad and see if that helps, otherwise it may be a strip down and re-assemble

Afternoon all, Following up on various other threads about replacing bearings etc on a Poolewood 28-40, I have now completed the rebuild on my lathe. I have replaced the capacitor, drive belt and all three spindle bearings using the advice previously published on this forum. Good news is that...

Totally agree about all little bars and knobs - PITA. I've lost count of bruises and scrapes trying to undo some of these; already have Bristol lever on banjo and never thought about concrete in bars but have two cwt concrete inside bench top instead.

'Typeface' - says it all :)

Thanks Dave - like you, I bought a new capacitor, then cleaned everything up and found it all works, so I already have a spare. If I've got the technology right, manual should be attached.

Hi Dave, I've got a 28-40, variable mechanical speed, bought in 1991 and have a manual which I have converted to PDF format. Although there are a number of different models, it may help as a starting point if you would like a copy.

A little bit of thread hijack here - apologies. I have followed the thread about replacing belt and bearings, bought the bits and about to take the plunge (particularly as the capacitor seems to have gone now). Two questions - is there any best sequence of disassembly/reassembly and should the...

I've only just completed a similar build, using incandescent light bulbs, cheap bathroom fan and Inkbird ITC-308 controller to turn on/off fan and light. All seems to work OK, couple of test pieces placed in kiln to see what happens, how quickly and best temperature settings. My question is...

Thanks Richard. I'm not sure that I can see any end grain, all edges are covered by solid edging - that may also be a clue that the rest is veneered.

Thanks, Tyreman. I am now much better informed, if no wiser :). At least I know I'm not going to make it worse

Thanks guys. Good idea to remove fixing from underneath, I'll try that. Can you tell me if there's much difference between Teak and Danish oil? I always thought they were both mixtures of Tung oil and shellac.

Afternoon all. My first post here, so be gentle please. I have a teak dining table, bought from a Danish furniture company back in 1981. So far as I can tell from looking at the underneath and the edges of centre panels, this appears to be solid teak around 19mm thick, but I don't know for...