Recent content by goldspanner

Hi Matt, I appreciate the advice, but at this point I'm certain it's the blade. The slot in the stock is very clean, and I'm sure to wipe off the combination square, and also the other square I'm using to check it with each time. One side of the blade appears to be relatively straight, but...

If it was just the stock that was out, the angle would be consistent wherever the stock was on the blade. I'm getting angles that are both larger and smaller than 90 degrees at different points along the blade.

Yeah I'm definitely going to return it. It's just getting to be rather problematic actually finding one that IS straight. Just to be sure: If the combination square is showing drastically different measurement with the stock in different position, surely this can only mean that the blade isn't...

I recently bought a new Starrett blade for an older Starrett stock, and have found it to be far from perfectly straight. Checking it against another accurate square with the stock at various points, it's all over the place. Anyone else found this to be the case with new Starrett stuff? If so...

a longer plane would definitely be better, but for now the no 3 is all I have could probably adjust the blade to compensate (Paul Sellers advocates this), but I'd worry about tear out if the sole isn't making full contact, especially as I might use the shooting board for long grain

Looking for a machine shop (or anything else that could do the job) to square up the sides on my no 3 smoother so I can use it for shooting. I tried a couple of simple jigs with sandpaper, but it just takes wayyyyyy too long. If anyone knows of anywhere in Brighton (preferably), or around East...

anyone tried out their PM-V11 stuff (chisels, plane irons). Would be interested to hear what it's like.

Whenever I see someone sharpening chisels or irons with side to side or figure 8 patterns, I always think it weird. This in comparison seems pretty normal!

from what I've read, generally speaking it seems to be the softer ones that want to be kept wet (king for example), whereas the harder ones like shapton seem to be ok with a quick spray before sharpening

hopefully you've figured this out by now? on a slightly different note, do you ever find that the QS chip breaker slides around even when tightened onto the blade? mine does a bit, although might be because I polished the back

wonder how sharp cryo O1 can get........

reverse infill! trying to think of a suitable word to describe what it might be like to own a 'coffin' plane, but at the very least it must be interesting......

Wow that graphite finish looks great, and so are the results you got from the plane. Heard mixed things about Clifton, but they've always looked very impressive to me.

I've heard good things about the Veritas, if you're wanting a western saw - Paul Sellers recommends it. As for Japanese, the Gyokucho that David Barron sells (Workshop Heaven also sells) is probably the best, and around the same price.

Very interesting looking plane, and one of the more creative depth adjustment mechanisms I've seen - reminiscent of that of the Lie Nielsen low angle smoother (just upside down!)