Recent content by Ginlow

Every time though, I'm like a walking disaster on this forum. Should have just typed Hampshire sheen does a toy safe oil. Then switched my phone off haa

Whoo there haha, I read bleach instead of beech and apologised soon after. I never mentioned sterilising. There is some disagreement to the comment though and this is allowed. I've been spoon carving for 6+ years and I've never seen a wooden spoon without a finish. And linseed oil, birch tar...

My bad, read bleach as bleach

Depending on wood I'm not sure that's good advice. Can bleech not leach in if it's open pores. And the semi gloss cured surface means it can't be chewed easily, it won't splinter and more importantly it's easy to clean. I personally think that's bad advice every wooden toy has a finish that you...

Had really good success with Hampshire sheens, Danish oil and wax. Even used on spoons, it's basically 90% tung oil and bit of citrus and something else. I have used cold pressed raw linseed oil, but it does have a lasting smell and taste. I'd add wax as well if it's a toy. Buff it on as well it...

I've just used the Danish oil version. And got very smooth finish on some shop furniture. Good experiment. Sanded to 400grit. Added just enough and wiped with paper towel to remove excess straight away. Then buffed after 15mins so it's not sticky. Left overnight should be completely dry to touch...

Could be basswood ha that stuff you can cut with your nail.

I initial thought was well weathered beech but the application is wrong would have to be an oily wood in water normally, so Teak. Not sure what the effects of salt water would have on teak maybe bleached it. You'd need to cut an end off. Mental but of wood that.

Oak for me as well, one panel could be from a very big tree and is more quarter sawn that's giving you cross section of medullary rays. Think the struts are pine looking. Pretty wood. You can smell oak if you sand it you can test for tannin with ebonising a small unseen bit. Should go black...

Way out there. You could ask a local school or university OR sell as shabby chic for home decor maybe approach some fancy stores for shop fronts, display stands. For selling to woodworkers, I'd forget your time spent on it. It's probably paid for that in use already and take it as a learning...

They have the best handles 100%. A2 blade was the deciding factor for me (and UK-made, personal choice). I have a block, 62 and no2 LN arguably the worst plane examples but both bench plane blades chipped on small knots in hard maple. Old planes with hocks and holtey blades fine and I bought the...

Sorry ye my mistake meant 7lbs. I was Inbetween jobs. The rest of the message and previous message holds some valid opinions and truths. I should no better than to comment on a forum, most gets ignored just the bits that can be conflicted. I personally thought the Clifton feels heavier and...

Does anyone know about rusting on ductile Vs grey. My Veritas have mad pitting after the mental UK weather this year but my old record and Stanleys are just a bit. All oiled up that didn't matter this year.

Another Google search... Clifton is 3.2 kg (official website) LN is 11lb = 3 kg (official website) Also tried both at Harrogate show 4 years back. The Cliftons casting is heavier so feels heavy. LN feels heavy in the centre probably the bronze adds a .5kg. CL felt better to me in the cut but the...

They're both top quality. Precision and square= both Knob and tote= LN Heavier weight= CL Better blade= CL Better looking= both, CL for me Collector value= LN Social media points= LN Just my opinion. There's always the Workshop heaven brand, kinda wish I'd gone that route. Feel like a...