S2/T2 (designation depends on brand) are far too big for the L5, nice fit for the L5A/L6 and 140 but you want an S1/T1 for the L5. Otherwise as you've found you just can't get the centre height low enough. The S1/T1 are designed with 19mm x13mm tooling which is exactly the same as the S2/T2...
Mine has two but same design, holes on the outside edge. I wonder if it's because yours has been tightened up more than it should be because of the missing plate. Yours looks almost coil bound while mine is barely tightened. FWIW there isn't a procedure in the manual beyond tightening it until...
FWIW I've found just using a suitably sized pair of drill bits in the holes for the clutch nut gave sufficient leverage to undo it. Certainly a pin hook spanner would be useful but I've never found I actually needed one.
I like that. Unfortunately not much use with the infinitely variable control that a VR gives. I left the original alone and stuck this above the lathe. It gives an idea of rough speeds at a given frequency and then can use the tacho to fine tune things (note that although the motor is rated...
FWIW my L5 was originally also a 480rpm version. As there are no significant changes until they increased speed to 2000rpm (and even then only in the pulley) I felt confident enough to run it faster. I replaced the motor on mine with a similar 1425rpm 2.2Kw 4 pole (VFD rated 5Hz to 90Hz which...
Sorry but it is completely different and this is wrong. You are describing the much later clutch. The manual on vintagemachinery.org is from 1965 and the clutch changed a *lot* between '49 and '65! There is also no brake fitted to this.
The diagram is out of the 1965 Manual which would be the...