Recent content by Ed Turtle

Thanks. Nearly ready to put the ridge up. The walls are done pretty much. Only two problems: 1) Not sure the best way to brace the front section, as its only about 40cm wide (each side) of the door opening. Any ideas? 2) The lintel is screwed to the bottom of the top plate, which is obviously...

Mike, you mentioned earlier that a 4x2 ridge is the bare minimum for a structural ridge. Since I am using a 4x2 (2m long) with 3x2 rafters (600 centres max, closer to 500), does this mean that i dont need a ridge post? So i can support the ridge temporarily as you did in your build, get the...

There we are then, thanks for clarifying

Far be it for me to say, but i think the osb is meant to go on last, from the outside in. Theres another thread about a 'vapor barrier' (sic) that discusses this in greater detail.

Ok, i just assumed that counter battening the frame would space the cladding away from the wall, therefore giving me the airgap needed, and therefore negate the need for the membrane, since there should be minimal moisture in the building since there will be no insulation to keep the moisture...

Its really just something i cant see that i'd need, and i dont want unnuessecary expense. Having said that, i CAN see why its needed for a workshop, but not for a shed. Just want to know if i'm missing something, and i do NEED it. Another q, the ridge pole at the rear of the shed will not be...

Any more thoughts on the breather membrane as mentioned above? Do i need it if i dont insulate? Can i use non-breathable roofing membrane, or will i be better off using nothing? Thanks

Thought as much, Ta. To clarify three things. 4x2 will be ok? This only applies to the front? Whats a cripple stud? At what point does the ridge become structural, i assume looking at a span table its the minimum thickness for a particular span? ie 4x1 is a ridge board, not beam? Also, not...

Ok, slabs now sorted as per mikes suggestion earlier. So I have a 6x6 slab (1.8m x 1.8m). Ready to put the bricks on, definitely going with at least two courses, but possibly three. I have enough 4x2 here to do a sole plate, wall studs at 600 centres and a double top plate. I was going to do...

Thats ok, i like hearing other options! I am definitely a cheapskate, i'll recycle old slabs, bricks, sand etc... i normally manage to get most stuff for free, then end up just paying for the cement. I didnt get any slabs this time though, so i'll just put it on the shed base thats already...

Yes, i had considered that, but as you say since its a small shed not a workshop, i dont think its worth the hassle. Thanks

Thats true, but i had thought they used engineering bricks for the bottom few courses, but now i think about it what you say makes sense, i just wasnt really thinking about it properly :roll: :? Kind of a moot point possibly though, as now i've got the old shed up, the slab underneath looks...

Just to keep the bricks out of the ground, protect them from frost. Not necessary? Yeah, not going to be used as anything other than a shed. Is the method i've used in the pictures above an ok approach? ie no OSB. And i had considered lining the above summerhouse with ply or osb, would that...

Thats what i was querying, whether i can dig a trench for the foundations, but have the foundations coming up above the ground by two inches, as well as underground by a few inches too. I was referring to the gap behind the cladding in this case. Since i wont be insulating this shed, would it...

The one in your signature shows you building it on a concrete lintel, but I already have the bricks here, so would prefer to use them. Would that be possible? Is the air gap absolutely essential on a shed (rather than an insulated workshop)?