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Recent content by dh7892


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    Where to buy good timber in London?

    I've used S L Hardwoods near Croyden and been very happy.
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    Projects for a beginner who lives in a flat

    In addition to the good ideas above, I'd recommend looking at some of Paul Sellers' videos on YouTube. He's got a very pragmatic mindset when it comes to how many tools he thinks a new woodworker needs to have to do some good projects so he won't be tempting you into buying too many gadgets...
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    Tenon Saw Virgin

    I'll add a different opinion then: I agree that the Veritas saws are a good buy if you want new. But I've got the cross-cut. I'm sure what others have said about being able to use the rip-cut on the shoulders is true but I vote for splitting your tennons rather than sawing them anyway so I...
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    Ashley's free/cheap she'd made from pallets

    Great idea. Like prefab stud walls for free! Look forward to seeing hoe it goes.
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    Home made threadless vice

    I've had a look at threadless vices before. Here's a home-made one: http://www.instructables.com/id/Leg-Vise-Threadless/step7/Jaws This one looks really good but expensive. http://www.hovartercustomvise.com/
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    What kind of axe?

    If you are still looking for a tool, I recommend these: http://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-17lb-post-hole-digger/62496 I got rid of a lot of bamboo with them. Good combination of digging and leverage.
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    Painting Concrete

    I used something like this:http://www.screwfix.com/p/leyland-heavy-duty-floor-paint-frigate-grey-2-5ltr/86567 and was very pleased with the results. Before applying it, I did a coat of levelling compound, followed by a coat or two of watered-down PVA. You might well be able to get away without...
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    Razor saw

    If you prefer a very low string action, you would completely set up the guitar again if switching to a different gauge. (intonation, truss-rod, saddle-height). If you like a higher action, you could get away with it. When I make my next guitar, I think I'll go with the zero-fret option. I...
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    Rounded bevels?

    The main reason that I switched over to free-hand sharpening was precisely because I noticed that all of the edged tools that I inherited from my long-deceased grandfather all had rounded bevels. My first instinct was: "oh dear, I'll have a lot of work to re-grind all of these". Then I...
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    Honing Guide

    I'm sure there are people who, for various reasons, might need some mechanical assistance in order to sharpen a blade so it's fit for purpose. But I also suspect that there are more still who think they need this help when they really don't. It seems sensible to me to try sharpening with a...
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    Japanese tools - advice please

    SometimeWoodworker, I don't understand, you say: "There is NO curvature introduced into the back." but also agree with me when I say that there is curvature there even if it is small? Also, if you have a flat back and then only lap 25mm of it, how can you not be introducing either a curve or a...
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    Japanese tools - advice please

    I'm sorry but if you do as you say, you will not be keeping completely flat back. If, as SteveJ says, you lap the whole back but put pressure on the tip more, I can see how you would keep a flat back but the front and back faces would no longer be parallel. But, if you just lap the first 25mm...
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    Japanese tools - advice please

    I can see that trying to tap out a small blade would be very hard to do and not really gain you much and we agree that larger blades need to be tapped. I can see what you're saying (sometimewoodworker) about only working on part of the blade. I guess the resulting curvature you would be...
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    Japanese tools - advice please

    Sorry, but I agree with MickCheese on this. You will not be "moving" the hollow back, you will be making the blade thinner. This will mean that you get a flat edge again but, if you keep doing this as you sharpen the blade back, you will eventually flatten away the ura. On a narrow blade such...
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    Japanese tools - advice please

    In the case of Japanese tools, they don't have a hollow grind; they have a forged hollow on the back. In western tools made from a single material, this wouldn't make any difference but, because the Japanese tools have a thin layer of hard steel with a much thicker section of iron, the fact...