Recent content by Destructive Dave

I will follow some advice and send some pictures I feel like I've asked if I should commit Suicide or not. Well the problem with hanging yoself is the moisture will hit the beam in no time and leave you with a loose noose about this hoose

So toast both side seal with varnish attach with poxy or no nails. throw a bucket of water over it every year? Sounds like a plan

Groovy 😎

So completely sealing the wood in varnish wouldn't stop moisture, got ya. We're talking pine on ply now as per my intention, it's either seal the wood first and bond with poxy or no nails to ply or bond untreated to ply with wood glue. Decisions decisions

What about treating the wood first wouldn't this stop the moisture? It's sealing the wood I understand that moisture is a threat as you all show concerns with it and so will I. I stated about treating the wood first and using no nails or epoxy but nobody has advised if it's a good approach. Who...

Also the intention although not what I'm using it for of shou sugi ban is to preserve the wood wouldn't that prevent moisture?

How about routering out brace wells In the ply? Also what about treating the pine beams before bonding to the ply? Would rule out wood glue probably but maybe no nails or epoxy?

I've remeasured to 72cm I'm going to have 18mm ply cut to measure, process my 4mm ply beams and wood glue them to the ply on the untreated side. Making it 22mm doors. Shirley it wouldn't suffer warping would it??

How do you mean plane it to size? I'm no joiner I understand that but it doesn't stop me from trying and enjoying which is the main thing. I wanted a big rustic looking wardrobe from the floor to ceiling and I'm 80% done and happy with my progress. Next time I will account for standard sizing...

Good question, I've not been able to find solid pine in the required size I need for the doors. I've searched everywhere online without luck. 76x 158cm

I have already done testing and staining with exceptional results. You do have to scorch to a depth to get the grain groves that manifest with using flap brush. My only problem is the dye I'm using kindof dyes the charred parts until I lift it with wire wool. Maybe an oil based dye would work...

Yes I will doing all prep before bonding when you say Ply I hope you mean the cheaper stuff as the price of quality birch etc has put me on to vaneering I was just going to toast the Ply but it's expensive for high grade in my opinion I see a better finish and a lot cheaper this way. No vac bag!

Is it necessary to vaneeer both sides if I use 18mm MDF? The pine is 4mm. Would you seal the MDF first and use wood glue? Thanks for replies

I'm looking to bond some strips of pine to MDF as wardrobe doors. Is it advisable? Would bonding to plywood be more suitable? I'm wanting to do Japanese wood burning on the pine as a feature and use the MDF/Ply for structure. Any help for a noob of the realm?

Fantastic replies from all of you. I'm not against hand tools and learning from tutorials/books. I have looked in to quality hand mitre saws and they are more expensive than a used quality sliding mitre saw. Maybe I can keep looking but they hold there value even the very old ones. It's good to...