Recent content by DaveyP

The (or a) company wot sells em is here... http://www.externalworksindex.co.uk/entry/110214/FT-Pipeline-Systems/Locking-replacement-stoptap-box-lids/#gallery-block I should imagine that the key / lifter it self, is nothing move than a L shape, soooooo a large allen key held with mole grips may...

Re the Aldi one. Works fine, accurate and square out of the box (but is fully adjustable if required) and has a trenching stop. The plastic guard is a bit 'plasticky' and I don't think it would survive back of van treatment for long, but sitting on a bench is good enough.

The only problem with draws.... is that there's 12,647 different ways of making them ('ish) :roll: and every different way has its merits fastest overall method may be router table with dovetail bit, doing the 2 different steps in a batch, then finally step to slot everything for the base...

To be honest.... as a learning exercise the woods a 'bit' on the thick side (reduce it by 50 to 75%) or preferably use something about 1/4" your progress will come on in leaps and bounds Use a better / more suitable glue rather than stuff that's more suited for Formica on worktops, lol look...

Very nice work indeed.. Just one thing I'd do differently, and that's not to 'slot' the side pieces for the full width, Only need enough for the biscuit length, so start and finish between the ends (only needs an extra stop block on right side of the router table) Or alternately a different...

The 'baby' triton is a nice router, bit cheaper from http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triton-JOF001 ... 35fa9489b8

Errrrrr.... nor me :roll: sometimes I feel like --> (homer)

Lol

Turns easy and can look special (its all in the sanding and the finish).... mahogany

Maybe a lot easier, cheaper and in keeping with the area to add 'windows' to your existing steel up and over door.

Turn the blade the other way up.. ? Or consider using Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse from Mikes Blades https://www.mikesworkshop.com/blades.htm

That frame is soooooooooooooooo wrong

That alone will solve the problem... or you could of course throw money at it and get a decent drill press (which then comes with different issues) :P

No... your not, no one was born with skills (apart from suckling, lol) All other skills come from study / watching or most importantly, asking questions. Anyway ..recommended drill speed would would be in the 3000 rpm area

Many factors come into play.. but burn is caused by heat in both wood or metal 1. heat is caused by friction, so reduce speed and pressure 2. drill tip angle can be a factor 3, drill flutes should / must clear the swarf away from the cutting edge Slow down, and don't try to push the bit...