Recent content by Trafalgar

My very camera shy European slider table saw is my most beautiful tool.

In a shallow housing or groove you have to be careful not to undercut the edge too much (or at all) or it can crumble. It's easy to get carried away with this cutter and start jabbing the walls of the housing or groove you're cutting.

The spear point blades are for working the undercut in a dovetail housing, where the floor has to be clean and smooth for the joint to work.

Yes, this happens when the clamp pads aren't plain rubber. Whatever they make them out of now, bleeds some sort of oil onto the wood. I have had some penetrate so deep it could not be sanded or scraped out without leaving a depressed mark on the wood. You'll need to interpose something...

You might find this interesting. I doubt this chair has 5 bd. ft. of lumber in it.

Again, really terrific work though I am patiently awaiting the arrival of an armchair blacksmith to tell you that you're doing it all wrong. ;)

Fascinating stuff. Thanks.

Beautiful. Krenov would have been proud to have made it. What stunning woodworking. One of the finest pieces I've seen posted on a woodworking forum in a very, very long time -- maybe ever.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1208364744/vintage-rawlplug-no-8-plugging-chisel

My post was very tongue-in-cheek...

Wait what, no duplicates? Those kits can't possibly be considered serious -- you need at least four of everything.

The video I posted above shows marking using a single-line gauge. Everybody has at least a marking gauge. If you do, you have all you need. There's no need to spend weeks researching and evaluating alternatives. Mark and chop if it's about woodworking and not tool ownership. If you bought a...

Most stock will have a little end-to-end bow. Leave it. Glue the two concave faces together aligning edges as best you can then process the glue-up into the leg by the usual hand tool methods -- establish a face, then an edge square to that face, then saw/plane to finished dimensions off these...

There are some circumstances where this can't be done, but they're fairly rarely encountered, so yes, one should follow the general rule of running marking implements against proven faces and edges.

The tenon can be anywhere it needs to be, central or otherwise. It just needs to be marked from the same face. And if the workpiece has been processed with reasonably accurate machinery, or fastidiously by hand, and thus is a consistent thickness, this isn't an absolute requirement. That...