Recent content by Chris1965

Could always try a tapered wood drill.

With bowls and hollow forms you can rough turn them to say a wall thickness of one inch, then coat the end grain or the whole thing with a 50% pva mix, then wrap in paper and dry store for 3 to 6 months before final turning. Wax is traditional but is a messy time consuming business. You can also...

Use Rocol dry ptfe or WD40 Dry ptfe on shafts, do not use grease or oil.

None so blind as those that cannot see.

There is supposed to be a 5 degree bevel angle on those !

Seen worse ... lol .... someone is bidding £11.09 plus P&P on an £8 box of sanding rolls !! work that one out !

I'm guessing you mean 90 degrees .... can you adjust your post ... the reason I ask is .... how do you set the bevel angle for the cutter ??

Is the table perpendicular to the sanding face ?

I have sent both CHJ and Noel messages explaining... again .. I am not here for commercial reasons, Noel cherry picked a line from a post of mine, he obviously neglected to read further where I stated quite clearly "But I am not here to plug my tools" I got involved in the discussion...

It looks like some type of span adjuster, but from which part, anyone's guess, I went and looked at schematics on Coronet site, could not see anything obvious though. Someone will be along who knows exactly what it is, always and expert kicking about somewhere :wink:

I dont think that would be necessary.

It is no secret that we make and sell a carbide tool ... all this came about after 30 years of wood turning, I have a tool that will replace all the tools you mentioned, and we are developing others for specialist tasks. But I am not here to plug my tools, those that pm'd me and asked have been...

From what model lathe ?

Sorry but I have to disagree with that entirely, carbide holds a sharper edge and for longer, is quicker and easier to resharpen and does not require specialist sharpening equipment. Plus you can buy one tool that will do the job of four HSS.

Sent you a PM.