Recent content by Chris Needham

We’ve a 20yr old laminate chipboard / hardboard / mdf (unsure) cupboard that has recently been damaged by something falling on it. It’s surface had been dented and the laminate has raised. It was supplied by Hammonds and we contacted them for advice but they could not be less interested...

The amount by which the dorm needed shortening to fit was so small that a saw would have been too much. Can you elaborate on ‘Start off by using a saw across the end grain (preferably pull saw) then plane a bevel to one side and then the other and as said above flatten off the remaining area. A...

That I didn’t know - thank you for this advice👍😊

Yes, a sharp plane for across the grain is a must, thanks. Myfordman - I plane the way you advise but have today chipped a bit off so wondered if there’s a more fail safe way. Maybe it’s aimply a case of practice makes perfect.... just one more thing - does using a bench or block plane make...

Grateful for tips on shortening a door using a manual plane. Planing the bottom edge of a door is easy enough when planing with the grain on the bottom rail, but what‘s the best way to plane the end of the side rails where you need to plane across the grain which risks damaging these ends...

So you’d use a masonry bit but drill on a regular (non hammer) setting? As time goes on rather than working with small margins all the time, I think a dedicated SDS drill is the most cost effective option in the long run.

yes in theory, but the bracket will only take a certain size screw and the real issue is filling in the ‘hole’ to level up with the brick face. I’m going to try drill the broken plug and replug or failing that try the resin as that may be a product I can use for other jobs too. Thanks

Thanks Phil

Thanks again, not come across that product before so I will check out tomorrow as reading the link it might do the trick. Appreciate the advice.

That’s an option, I’m a bit reluctant to do too much drilling as the brickwork is inclined to perish easily and I don’t want to do any more drilling than necessary as the brickwork is plastered and on a 90yr old house some is coming lose. That said I may have too , thanks fro the reply

I need to fix a bracket to a wall in an old house. I’ve been able to drill and rawl plug most holes and where the brick etc has perished or is weak I’ve managed to plug these holes with wood plugs that I’ve made. There is one though that I’m struggling with as the wood plug has snapped off...

Thought hex shanks were designed for impact drivers?

And what bits would be recommended for this driver please? Milwaukee‘s own shockwave series perhaps? Or are there any generic makes that can be recommended? Can hex shank bits be used in a standard drill?

Hex shank as in ones for an impact driver?

I understand HSS bits are able to drill wood but get the impression from UKdrills that can drill wood simply by virtue of the fact wood is softer than metal for which they are designed to drill; ie, HSS drill bits aren’t really suitable let alone ideal for drilling wood. Any comments gratefully...