Recent content by cadders75

What about the Irwin Blades, I thought that the Irwin saws were the replacement for shark saws ?

Or a complete beginner could spend ages dicking around trying to make tools he doesn't understand, work in a way they should do, Which is a lot harder when you have probably never sharpened a set of chisels or even used them in anger before. Better to buy a reasonable new (not LNs or AIs yet)...

I agree with buying the standard hardpoint saws, I've got 3 with differing tooth sizes, however the Irwin Tenon saw I have is rubbish, it will not cut straight and just seems to be a difficult to use piece of kit, the finish it leaves is also bloody awful leaving a lot more work to clean up any...

I have a set of 14.4V Makita Nicads, driver, drill-driver and Impact driver with a couple of the cheap Screwfix Site batteries as spares. I've had these for 5 years now and one of the 1.3A batteries is now starting to weaken but they have been pretty bullet proof with the heavy DIY work I have...

My own experience would point you towards a set of 3m lapping films and a 100 micron film for rough bevel forming from Workshop Heaven, either stick them on an off cut of worktop or splash out on the glass from workshop heaven, combine these with a cheap eclipse copy jig, this will get you up...

Thanks for the reply, finally something where I work will be useful :mrgreen: I did consider making up a gelcoat, spraying it on and flatting back to get the gloss finish I wanted, sounds like a money spent on the Morrells acid cat may well be a better idea. Do you have any Experiance with...

Nice unit mailee. When you say you polish the Morrells 2 pac do you use a polishing mop and compound, just like you would when polishing gelcoated surfaces?

I use a crappy pressed steel draper "plane" with a cambered blade, the mouth is big enough to drive my pick up through but it's small, light and easy to use.

They are good for what they say on the outside of the cover, I've used the 7&8tpi on stud walling, Chestnut sleepers and exterior framing for decking and they cut fast and clean IMO, however I would use one of my Japanese saws for any quality work. Pretty much the same as an Hardpoint really...

Our GRP door cost £950 from a reputable local fitter, the core is Ply and it has 2 GRP outer skins, When i was checking out the GRP doors i was told there are 3 different types, they all use similar outer skins front and back (Gelcoat + RTM GRP) but it's the core that changes the cost, I could...

I have the one they offer at Aldi, for the limited amount i have used it for it's been excellent.

You could bond an aluminium wear plate onto the resin surface, a decent MMA adhesive should give a good bond between the Aly and Resin face, though a light abrasion then acetone wipe would help adhesion. If you can post cure the laminate it would certainly help increase the properties, if you...

If it's a gelcoated boat, the blisters may be in the laminate rather than the gelcoated surface, some Glass fibre binders draw water through the gelcoat by osmosis, which means to get rid of the blisters can be quite a repair job. If it's gelcoated then you can try to buff it up with a powermop...

Agreed, Matthew from workshop heaven gave me a free sheet to help prep some AI Dovetail Chisels, I now use it in place of my ezelap coarse Diamond stone to establish the primary bevels and flatten plane soles and chisel backs. I use a cheapo eclipse type guide on it to establish the bevels...

I'm starting a garage conversion pretty soon and I've recently had the local BC guy round to go over my options, I was expecting to have to stud wall the entire garage with batts in-between the studding. However he's advised me that fixing 1" tile battens to the single brick skin walls, fix...