My Bosch expert 165mm does come scarily close to the housing but giving it a go anyway. The plate on the Bosch is 1.6mm which is better than the alternatives and do believe finding a thicker plate on a 165mm blade should be an easier task. There is enough adjustment in the depth screw to...
You mean the mafell branded blades aren’t made in house? Not surprising
no it’s too tight and might even foul the baseplate. There is very little wiggle room inside, it’s tightly engineered to create as much vacuum removal as possible
They are indeed making it awkward for other manufacturers to eat their share of the blade market. I have used the highest quality Bosch blades on my old makita they are very good and allow a respectable amount of re-sharpening.
I have a mafell
Mafell uses 162mm blades so 165mm blades risk cutting into the body of the saw. The depth adjuster is set for 162mm blade so that would be inaccurate with a 160mm. Not the end of the world but a rigid 162mm blade supplied at the princely sum I paid for it would have been better.
Were the worktops glued together? You’re not going to notice 1/2mm deflection unless you glue two pieces together or require a dead accurate cut line for matching cabinet parts. 1/2mm either way can mean a 1mm gap and 1degree off bevel can mean an open mitre when it comes to glue-up.
I’ve not tried festool blades as the Mafell has some elegant design features that might not be compatible with a different size blade but I might have to just to get a decent cut and maintain an accurate splinter strip cut line. Kind of wish I’d just bought the ts55 now. One of the main reasons...
My workshop is too small for a panel saw unfortunately. I have no problem with blade deflection on my table saw. I just wish it was easier to source thicker guage blades for the mt55. I feel like it’s an easy problem to fix but every blade manufacturer I have bought from has succumbed to the...
That is a fix in part though it can still result in stepped cuts. Not good enough for glue-up. I begrudge spending a ton and still having to do 2-3 times the work using a blade that is supposedly more efficient. Thinner blade= faster cut= worse cut= expensive mistakes + more passes/slower progress.
That is indeed a solution to the problem that I have resorted to but why should I have to do 2-3x the work when i have forked out a ton on a specialist tool? My point is that manufacturers are relying on gimmicks to sell their products in the form of thin kerf blades.. thinner blades= Quicker...
I also used to use a ripping jig and a 9” circular saw without wobble problems because the blades were thicker guage. Unfortunately it was not an accurate or versatile enough method for complex cabinet making so can’t go back to that.