wood piercing a wooden vessel

[TopCat 32]

Im, sure a few people have done this, i have been watching a few videos on you tube, and was wondering what members use and recommend for this, or even tell me to avoid, would a dremal be sufficient? if so there seems to be about 20 different models and are the flexi drives useful, also what cutters work best. looking at the videos some are using a box driven flexidrive wand any idea where these can be obtained and are they much better , my guess is they are a lot more money.
i know im asking a load of questions, but any help appreciated before i jump in and spend my hard earned on the wrong thing

regards Tim

 

[Dalboy]

You can use a Dremel type tool but they can be uncomfortable to use for long periods but they do a good job.

There are others out there like the micro tools and dentist type tools that I have heard are very good but can not comment on those as I have not used them.

I have an Axminster tool like THIS ONE with a chuck attachment as well as the carving head it comes with. Because of the thinner drill section and flexi shaft I find comfortable to use.

I tend to sit and do this kind of work as it has a foot control and I find it comfortable especially in the garden on a nice day.

As for burrs and the like there are so many out there some which I have not yet tried but I have some small diamond burrs and some dura-grit which will remove wood quite fast, the thing I found is don't try and press too hard otherwise it will burn and not cut so readily.

 

[Honest John]

I have done a bit of piercing over the years and it is something I enjoy. What use to pierce is often driven by either what you already have to hand and also how thick the wall of the vessel is. Thin walls are far easier but have their own issues. Thicker walls enable more 3D artistic opportunities. Dremel type tools are probably the cheapest route, and I don’t think there is much difference between any of the makes available. A flexible shaft gives more options and is better to work with. Better still but more expensive is the micro motor devices. I use the one sold by “Woodart” I think they are called. John from Woodart will be at Harrogate again this year is sure. For heavier work I also use a Fordom type motor unit with a flexible shaft. Mine is the Axminster version, but I’m not sure they make it now. This is essentially the same as a Dremel with a shaft, but with interchangeable hand pieces and a much bigger motor. This useful for carving away with Sabburr rasp type bits on heavier items.
If you are only doing piercing then a Dremel ot micromotor could be the way to go, but I find that my piercings are often involved with further carving and all sorts of tools get used. I use a Proxxon jig saw for instance to remove bigger sections. Dental drills are considered the peak performers, and I would have one if I could have quiet affordable compressor as I work in part of my house. My micromotor has always done everything I have reasonably expected of it. As with bandsaws or any other cutting implements the cutting bits or in this case burrs are key. The best I have used are the ones sold by John at Woodart. For heavier removal or piercing I use Sabburr bits. One final note, when piercing be very aware of where your fingers are. Blood is very difficult to remove from a light coloured wood. Please don’t ask how I know this!

 

[TopCat 32]

thanks John and delboy, food for thought there i will go and have a look at axminster site as well as woodart, i remember watching Ed Oliver doing a demo at our club now and i may be wrong but i think he said he got his bits from woodart, so thanks for jogging my memory and i hope the finger healed up well John

 

[SVB]

As others have said - ‘it depends’.

The dremel drills with flexishaft are ok to get stated but have a couple of significant draw backs: even with the flexishaft, there is quite a bit of resistance to moving the tool in your hand so you’ll get tired (sore) hands / wrists / lower arms fairly quickly. The other draw back is the speed it spins - 18-20k rpm is pretty much flat out and with smaller cutters it feels like trying to rough turn a square spindle on the lathe with the lathe set at 300rpm - you can do it but it’s not smooth / easy.

Next is the micromotor type device. More expensive (£200 gets a good starter unit). Have massive advantage that can go up to 45k rpm so removes the lumpy feel of dremel and as you only have a power lead going to the hand piece are much nicer to hold & manipulate. They also have a 1/4 turn quick change collet so swapping between burrs as you carve (which you will do a lot) is easy rather than pita to find that little spanner and pin and fiddle with the dremel.

Final option is the air tool / dental type tool. I’ve tried using ex dental handpieces and that’s ok but hard to really feel what your doing. I recently got a proper handpiece (NSK Presto) - a great piece of kit, not cheap though. These spin at up to 400k rpm and can leave a scorched surface of the timber as you cut depending of the burr in use. Also, are really only fine detail tools so don’t expect to carve a full size magpie in the round with one!

As you can tell from above, I’ve been on this journey and have examples of each - you’d be welcome to stop by and have a play if your in the Glos area at all.

Simon

 

[TopCat 32]

thanks simon, bit far away im in sussex, after reading john's post i looked at the woodart site and they do a unit i think its called the 35K for about £200 i take it this is the sort of thing you both mean

 

[SVB]

This is the unit I have:

https://www.classichandtools.com/acatal ... arver.html

Looks like the higher spec version but slightly better price. Remember to order the reducing collets - you’ll need them.

It was recommended by Dixie Biggs as a good unit to start with. This is her demo filmed at the Maryland woodturners in the US - well worth a watch.

https://youtu.be/ucge2PtkrK4

Re burrs, the diamond ones really think of as sanding only. For piercing then the dental type burrs are best - go for the ones will seration rather than just straight sides. For bulk removal I find the saburr burrs really effective as others have said + if they get clogged (only really an issue on very wet timber), just blast them with a flame and wire brush out the carbon - good as new!

Simon.