Moderators: Random Orbital Bob, nev, CHJ, Noel, Charley

By Mreco99
Thanks AES,

I only have planes to cut wood so far. The only thing i know i don't want to cut... are my fingers! Might have to get some steel butchers gloves
I would search these forums but the search seems to search the whole internet.
User avatar
By Honest John
I also went to look at the middle sized Axi Trade saw, but when I saw it it seemed huge, so I made my test cuts on the 16 inch one that you are interested in. The mid sized one looked to me huge, but I’m still not sure as it’s only another 50 quid and if I ever wanted the bigger throat clearance .........I’m sure you’ll be very pleased with your intended purchase, not withstanding what I’ve already said which might have sounded a bit negative, it’s very likely I shall buy an excalibur. By the way the Pegas Modified Geometery blades that AES alluded toare seriously good! Nothing wrong at all with Pegas reverse tooth blades but the mod geometery ones are superb, especially if you are cutting inch + hardwoods. Have fun.
Re searching, up at the top LH of the start window of each post there's "Search this Topic" box. There's also a "general" search box at the middle (roughly) of the Forum Home page.

Re MGT, yeah, sorry, I should have said that it stands for "Modified Geometry Teeth".
By aramco
hi I would like to throw my twopenny worth in if I may, I like you after I had done some scroll work on my record power 16 inch machine for 12 months , and the blade changing for internal cuts took ages, up to 2 minutes and over sometimes , but with the pegas blade changing system its 10 seconds or so,makes a big difference when one is cutting a piece with 400+ internal cuts, so decided that I needed to up grade, I like you asked on here which way to go, Brian - claymore - uses two axies a 18 and a 30, and after looking at all of his work and checking on the interweb, decided this is what I wanted to do for my hobby, bit the bullet and bought the 30 model, and never regretted for one minute, its a very big machine and I have not used t to its fullest capacity yet, and am just getting back into the shop after a 5 month layoff.

If you get into the types of blades there are available it is a veritable mine field, everyone has their own opinions which is the best, my suggestion is try many different ones and pick the one best suited to your mode of working , personally, I like the flying Dutchman which I get from Mikes workshop in the states, the cost is on par with others including postage I buy them by the 144 as the postage is exactly the same for a 12 pack,but have been using some pegas lately and like them as well, and have used the titanium ones that Judy gale Roberts sells and they cut corian like its butter, with the right speed and feed of course , this is another topic that gets a lot of discussion, hope this helps, and remember what ever you do have fun.
By whatknot
You asked if there was anything else you might need

The one thing I don't think you have mentioned is patterns

Some like to make their own, others just use other peoples patterns, bought and free

If you haven't already found it, get acquainted with Steve Goods site

Where you will also find his pattern catalogue, but there is a wealth of information on his site as well

The patterns are all free as is mentioned but you can donate if you wish

I didn't see your previous comment about a carving glove, frankly if it was in relation to the scroll saw you have no need at all, with a scroll saw you would almost have to want to hurt or cut yourself to do so, they are one of the safest machines to use

I do find using the builders type gloves very useful (the type with the palm covered in a latex type material) as it gives very good grip on the workpiece, but not for protection

Other than that, some 3 in 1 oil and some furniture wax, waxing the table periodically keeps it clean and lets the workpiece slide on the surface (not silicone polish, beeswax or similar)

You have probably already found that you can download the manual for your intended purchase from Axminsters site, so you can get familiar with it and its maintenance

Mreco99 wrote:After everyones help here and lots of other research, I am pretty sure I am going to buy the Axminster Trade AT406SS Scroll Saw £649 (which is the older name of EX-16 I believe).
I think 16 inch (400mm throat should be plenty for me, as far as i can tell) ... saw-101771
I considered the Axminster Trade AT460SS at £499 but i think for a little more (its always a little more!!!) the AT406SS is worth it.
The head tilts, PEGAS blade clamps included.
My work bench measures 680mm deep so that will fit on the ok (unless the bench is too high)

It comes with some Pegas blades, but do i need anything else? Apart from some wood :-)
User avatar
By Honest John
Well I ended up buying the Axi EX21 as I thought I would. After a few adjustments following the procedures listed in the hand book, I’m very impressed with it. Clearly the smaller one I tried out at Axminster was not “fettled” and that would explain my initial disappointment with this when I tried it a few weeks ago. The lack of a foot peddle that my Peugeot has (still for sale incidentally in the for sale section), is taking a bit of getting used to but I’m getting there. Lots of people manage without a peddle so it must be possible. I find the tiny rocker switch on the front really fiddly for my pork sausage fingers toopperate so I expect I may engineer and install a foot peddle at some time in the future. It doesn’t look to be beyond the wit of undoing the blade from the top clamp and feeding the blade through internal cuts from the bottom of the workpiece as I have always done. Undoing the bottom clamp and feeding the blade through the top of the workpiece from above seems an attractive option, but I am still finding that locating the blade in the bottom clamp is fiddly and time consuming. Is this just a skill thing that will get better with practice ? Do many of you feed the blade from the top ?
Glad you like the Ex 21. Personally I wouldn't be without a foot pedal and fitted one to mine (it's SO much more convenient, especially if you've already had one before) but mine is not a UK version so doesn't have a NVR (No Volts Release). However fitting such devices to other machines (not necessarily scroll saws) with a NVR has been done and has been discussed on UKW before, so I suggest you do a search. Should come up OK, but I can't remember where, sorry.

Re blade feeding, personally I find that because the arm stays up when you lift it, it's a lot easier to feed the cut out in the job on to the blade from on top (i.e. blade remains fixed in the bottom clamp), but p'raps that just me. I only ever use the bottom blade clamp when changing blades.

Enjoy your machine, v good choice IMO.
By aramco
glad you like your new scroll saw ,and in answer to your question I also feed the blade up through the work leaving the bottom blade closed until blade change, I have never used a foot pedal as I have no feeling in either foot so would probably end up losing a finger, so I also will have to put up with the fiddly switch. Most people who have axminster saws have problems with the table scratching up very quickly and looking hideous, I personally have put a sheet of 1 mm plastic over the top to stop this from happening, other people have resorted to other methods to protect the table, it appears to be common fault and I wonder why axminster have not remedied the problem.

take care