treating waney edge cladding

[Joe Shmoe]

Hi.

I have a shed-build being planned in my head for my dad, as he wants me to build him a new shed this summer.

I was at an junk-auction at the weekend, and there was a whole load of 28mm thick Waney edged boards being auctioned off. I though it was too good an opourtunity to pass up and that I could use them for cladding on my dad's forthcoming shed. I managed to get them reasonably cheap, and certainly cheaper than buying 18mm Shiplap etc.

Now, as they are pretty light in weight, I am guessing the are some kind of Fir, rather than oak... lol, and as such guessing they haven't been treated but I will obviously need to do so.

I was thinking a generous brushing of light-coloured creosite once they have dried out, will that suffice? Or should I take them to a timberyard and ask them to pressure treat ?


Any advice for an silly person?

Thanks guys
Joe.

 

[AndyT]

If they are light in weight, they could be cedar - which is very light and naturally durable without any finish or chemicals at all. Try posting a few pics on here.

 

[Digit]

Unless you buy in 25 litre bulk you won't get genuine Creosote. Creosote is basically tar in a solvent, the solvent evaporates leaving the tar on and in the wood. The lighter the colour the less the preservative.

Roy.

 

[Harbo]

I thought Creosote had been banned because its made from tar?

Rod

 

[Digit]

It is, in small quantities, it's assumed that the larger quantities will be only used by pros using nuclear/chemical/ biological protective clothing.
The imitation stuff is useless.

Roy.

 

[Harbo]

I always understood it was because it can enter the water system and is toxic?
Tar is no longer used in road construction and if found and disturbed has to be removed to specialist tips.

Rod

 

[Digit]

Yet it is avaiable in 25 litre quantities, I pay nearly £50 for such as I live in a timber house.

Roy.

 

[ankledeep]

Creosote is available for "professional use only"........define professional....... :-k :duno:

 

[Digit]

Yep! My supplier works on the basis that only a pro will buy in quantity, ipso facto, if I buy in quantity, I'm a pro!

Roy.

 

[Joe Shmoe]

hi guys, bad news......

on close inspection, some of the boards have got woodworm holes and a few more are a little rotten and flakey on the edges! argh. Should have checked more carefully but I was rushed and it was wet etc.... no wonder I got them cheap lol.

Anyway, 90% of them are pretty okay, so would a good dose of proper Creosote stop any further ww damage etc?

Would you think they are still okay to use? it's only for a garden shed, but no point using something that's gonna cause damage or need replacement within a few years etc...

I've attached a photo showing the rot and holes etc. only a couple of the boards are like that, but now I'm worried about the rest, even though they feel okay.

 

[Digit]

There's rot and rot, timber that has softened will soak up the Creosote rather well. It's a strange fact Joe that damp timber draws the Creosote in deeper than dry timer as well. The worms in the wood won't survive the treatment and any hole simply allow for better penetration.

Roy.

 

[Benchwayze]

If this timber is light in weight and pinkish brown, smells like 'pencils', (When you sharpen them) it's cedar. All I ever do with that is give it a coat or two of linseed oil, for appearance. it doesn't need any treatment, and weathers to a soft, pleasant grey-brown.
HTH