Best Hand Drills?
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dunbarhamlin
Established Member
It really depends on the range of hole sizes you want to bore, and whether you want new, sensible price or bee's knees.
Vintage is likely to be the better option in terms of mechanical quality as well as cost (unless you go bee's knees - Millers Fall, Yankee)
Unless you want to bore a lot of larger holes, a 10" 2 jaw brace will cover most boring needs, and handle all bit types (round, hex or traditional.) For pure torque, even a 10" brace will leave any modern cordless drill in the dust.
Vintage is likely to be the better option in terms of mechanical quality as well as cost (unless you go bee's knees - Millers Fall, Yankee)
Unless you want to bore a lot of larger holes, a 10" 2 jaw brace will cover most boring needs, and handle all bit types (round, hex or traditional.) For pure torque, even a 10" brace will leave any modern cordless drill in the dust.
Paul Chapman
Established Member
custard":2rq5d0t6 said:
I would always go for one with a key-operated chuck to prevent the drill bits slipping. This will limit your choice as most of them have hand-operated chucks. I've used the Footprint and Record/Marples for many years with no problems
I doubt that either of them are made any longer so you would have to buy second-hand.
Cheers :wink:
Paul
Vann
Established Member
Millers Falls made some very nice drills - but being collectible they're probably going to cost more than you need to pay for a user.
I've found the humble, common-or-garden Stanley #803 (with idler gear - I've seen them without) to be a free running drill, and obtainable at a reasonable cost. One big advantage of the #803, IMHO, is that you can still get parts for the chucks (and I've found the biggest problem buying second hand eggbeaters, is the number that have stuffed chucks).
HTH.
Cheers, Vann.
I've found the humble, common-or-garden Stanley #803 (with idler gear - I've seen them without) to be a free running drill, and obtainable at a reasonable cost. One big advantage of the #803, IMHO, is that you can still get parts for the chucks (and I've found the biggest problem buying second hand eggbeaters, is the number that have stuffed chucks).
HTH.
Cheers, Vann.
Alf
Established Member
Yeah, I'm fond of the #803 too, Vann. It was my first introduction to hand tools and I use one still. Aesthetically there are lovelier wheel braces (anything with a spoked wheel, for a start) but they are easy to come by, spares are not hard to find either 'cos you can always find another one to donate (been there, done that), and they just do the job.
Having said which, Paul's point about the keyed chuck varieties is a good one - anyone who's pulled their drill away only to see the bit remaining in the work will appreciate that. Footprints are the most commonly found (must put that boxed one I have up for sale some time).
Hand drill I've liked best would have to be the Record 124 though; amazingly light and smooth action. A real gem. But good luck finding one of those, 'cos they weren't made for long. Most desired hand drill (for me, and now it's been Schwarzed, probably for everyone else too, so I'll never get one now...) would be the North Brothers 1530, which has a ratchet mechanism that rates highly for sheer gizmocity. Any Millers Falls will see you right.
All of which is subject to wear, tear and broken chucks, of course. Check that springs that should be in between the chuck jaws, are in between the chuck jaws. Although the last drill I got turned out to have a nifty chuck that didn't use springs - result! Check that the jaws actually close up nice and tight for the smallest drill bits. Avoid broken gear wheel teeth, and try and aim for a model that has a double pinion (or idler wheel) 'cos it'll run a lot smoother. If you're buying in the flesh, give everything a good pull about to see that everything's tight. Wobble in the drill will only translate to wobble in your drilling.
Same thing about wobble applies to braces too. Assuming you'll be looking for a 8" or 10" ratchet brace, things to look out for are the superior features that will tend to indicate a model higher in the range, and thus usually a better brace. Unless it's a Yankee with the rubber handle, look for exotic hardwoods in the handle and pad - cocobolo, rosewood and so forth. Bearings between the pad and the frame, and a enclosed ratchet mechanism is a good indicator too. No-one much values braces, so getting a better model won't cost you more than a bog standard one. Unless it's the creme-de-la-creme, which is generally agreed to be the Yankee 2100/2101. Expect one of those to set you back a bit.
Whatever you do, don't go new for either of them. Bit late for car boot season now, but there's eBay, or if peace of mind is more important than cost, there's the tool dealers.
Having said which, Paul's point about the keyed chuck varieties is a good one - anyone who's pulled their drill away only to see the bit remaining in the work will appreciate that. Footprints are the most commonly found (must put that boxed one I have up for sale some time).
Hand drill I've liked best would have to be the Record 124 though; amazingly light and smooth action. A real gem. But good luck finding one of those, 'cos they weren't made for long. Most desired hand drill (for me, and now it's been Schwarzed, probably for everyone else too, so I'll never get one now...) would be the North Brothers 1530, which has a ratchet mechanism that rates highly for sheer gizmocity. Any Millers Falls will see you right.
All of which is subject to wear, tear and broken chucks, of course. Check that springs that should be in between the chuck jaws, are in between the chuck jaws. Although the last drill I got turned out to have a nifty chuck that didn't use springs - result! Check that the jaws actually close up nice and tight for the smallest drill bits. Avoid broken gear wheel teeth, and try and aim for a model that has a double pinion (or idler wheel) 'cos it'll run a lot smoother. If you're buying in the flesh, give everything a good pull about to see that everything's tight. Wobble in the drill will only translate to wobble in your drilling.
Same thing about wobble applies to braces too. Assuming you'll be looking for a 8" or 10" ratchet brace, things to look out for are the superior features that will tend to indicate a model higher in the range, and thus usually a better brace. Unless it's a Yankee with the rubber handle, look for exotic hardwoods in the handle and pad - cocobolo, rosewood and so forth. Bearings between the pad and the frame, and a enclosed ratchet mechanism is a good indicator too. No-one much values braces, so getting a better model won't cost you more than a bog standard one. Unless it's the creme-de-la-creme, which is generally agreed to be the Yankee 2100/2101. Expect one of those to set you back a bit.
Whatever you do, don't go new for either of them. Bit late for car boot season now, but there's eBay, or if peace of mind is more important than cost, there's the tool dealers.
woodbloke
Established Member
I've got a Stanley thingie but I don't think I've ever used it...my small AEG Li-on cordess makes it all but redundant. Still, it looks nice on the Tool Wall - Rob
Fat ferret
Established Member
Got an old whitmoore, (I think) drill, it works fine, smooth and not too heavy. I think providing it all works old eggbeaters are much of a muchness really. Although the keyed chuck sounds like a good idea and suitable replacments can often be found for missing keys.
jimi43
Established Member
All the cordless drills I have tried...(including strange coloured festering ones)...lack the contol to drive the thing in the chuck (which may not necessarily be a twist drill), around at a speed and time that I wanted it to.
And there are circumstances when this is vital...small drills, reamers, countersinks......
I'm not knocking cordless drills because there is no doubt that now, with the advent of "born free" batteries...they are wonderful tools....but there are special occasions where hand control rules.
Of all the hand-driven whirly things that I have owned...most have ended up in boxes on the bottom shelf or sold at bootfairs but I think I will keep this:
Ok it's too large for some jobs but it is smooth...the gears are encased so that it should stay relatively clean in there....but I do need to find a smaller model for more delicate work.
Jim
And there are circumstances when this is vital...small drills, reamers, countersinks......
I'm not knocking cordless drills because there is no doubt that now, with the advent of "born free" batteries...they are wonderful tools....but there are special occasions where hand control rules.
Of all the hand-driven whirly things that I have owned...most have ended up in boxes on the bottom shelf or sold at bootfairs but I think I will keep this:
Ok it's too large for some jobs but it is smooth...the gears are encased so that it should stay relatively clean in there....but I do need to find a smaller model for more delicate work.
Jim
Racers
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Hi,
Millers Falls are very good, I have one, the gears have prime numbers of teeth, so the same pair of teeth only mesh once every 1086 turns. I have a couple of stanleys that are o/k one I have managed to wear quite badly its gone sloppy and loose, the Millers Falls one turns like a swiss watch in comparison, and it was made in the 1930s.
Pete
Millers Falls are very good, I have one, the gears have prime numbers of teeth, so the same pair of teeth only mesh once every 1086 turns. I have a couple of stanleys that are o/k one I have managed to wear quite badly its gone sloppy and loose, the Millers Falls one turns like a swiss watch in comparison, and it was made in the 1930s.
Pete
custard
Established Member
Thanks for some very useful comments.
I've just finished "The Anarchist's Tool Chest", I wouldn't agree with everything Christopher Schwarz writes, but overall it's an inspirational message to de-clutter your tool collection. Thinking about it I'm pretty satisfied with most of my tools apart from there's just too many of them (except I don't have any floats which I could certainly use for through tenons), and my two hand drills are a bit tacky. Hence this post.
I've just finished "The Anarchist's Tool Chest", I wouldn't agree with everything Christopher Schwarz writes, but overall it's an inspirational message to de-clutter your tool collection. Thinking about it I'm pretty satisfied with most of my tools apart from there's just too many of them (except I don't have any floats which I could certainly use for through tenons), and my two hand drills are a bit tacky. Hence this post.
woodbloke
Established Member
You may be right Jim, but I remain to be convinced. The only time I've ever used my egg-beater thing is when I've forgotten to charge the batteriesjimi43":16jbsbtm said:
on my small AEG. The bit will go as slow as I like, it's got some built in illumination and it's not too heavy and bulky, but as ever, each to their own - Rob
Vann
Established Member
I disagree. Some run smoothly. Some don't, and are just unpleasant to use IMHO (do I have humble opinions? Nah, probably not).Fat ferret":2grfo3xz said:
Cheers, Vann.
Scouse
Established Member
I've got an eggbeater drill too. It's great.
I've recently come to see the good points in old Stanleys, but if I could only have one, it would be a decent Millers Falls No.2.
Sorry... the thought of only one egg beater drill, made me go a bit peculiar and I had to sit down... :roll: :wink:
I've recently come to see the good points in old Stanleys, but if I could only have one, it would be a decent Millers Falls No.2.
Sorry... the thought of only one egg beater drill, made me go a bit peculiar and I had to sit down... :roll: :wink:
Paul Chapman
Established Member
custard":21ekdh1l said:
It's a bloke called Wiktor Kuc - website here http://www.wktools.com/
Cheers :wink:
Paul
Scouse
Established Member
Paul Chapman":a9fisesy said:
... He restores them to better than factory condition, so restore may be the wrong word; beautiful, but at an eye watering price. Always a few on ebay for not much money (up till now!) which, if they need any work at all, are easy to fix up if you want to use rather than display.
Early No.2 drills have an adjustable spindle roller, a little wheel above the chuck, later ones have an idler pinion, I find the later ones to be better drills but earlier ones look cooler.
