Moderators: Random Orbital Bob, nev, CHJ, Noel, Charley

 Reply
User avatar
By rxh
#1336222
I recently completed this small infill rebate plane (3/4" wide). This is the second I have made in this size but I have given this one a fence, depth stop and a pair of nickers.

Body length 5 3/4", body height 1 1/2", overall length 6 1/8", overall height 2 3/8", angle of iron 45 degrees. Sides and sole bright mild steel, iron and nickers O1 steel, fence brass. The wood is padauk.
Attachments
IMG_7282A.jpg
IMG_7283A.jpg
IMG_7288A.jpg
IMG_7292A.jpg
IMG_7294A.jpg
IMG_7275A.jpg
IMG_7274A.jpg
User avatar
By Trevanion
#1336225
Outstanding work!
User avatar
By rxh
#1336244
AndyT wrote:Nice to see more of your distinctive house style! What's it like in use?

Thanks Andy. Preliminary tests are encouraging. I'll get some "shavings shots" to show.
User avatar
By ED65
#1336294
That's a lovely piece of work and no mistake!
User avatar
By rxh
#1336330
memzey wrote:Beautiful as always. Where are the knickers if you don’t mind me asking (as the bishop said to the actress)?

Thanks memzey - they are on the front, held on with a bolt, ready to be dropped instantly when required :)
User avatar
By Derek Cohen (Perth, Oz)
#1336429
That is a great plane. Lots of potential!

I like the square sides - I often use a shoulder plane to make rebates or to clean up rebates, and I know of no rebate plane that is squared like a shoulder plane.

I assume that the depth stop and the fence can be swapped to both sides? If not, it would make for extra versatility.

I do not see nickers. Nickers are important for planing across the grain to prevent spelching, although a knifed line can help here as well.

A shoulder plane such as this one really does benefit from an adjustable mouth - move from fine shavings to coarse, deeper cuts.

What is the blade at the rear, and how is it used?

Excellent!

Regards from Perth

Derek
User avatar
By rxh
#1336771
Derek Cohen (Perth, Oz) wrote:That is a great plane. Lots of potential!

I like the square sides - I often use a shoulder plane to make rebates or to clean up rebates, and I know of no rebate plane that is squared like a shoulder plane.

I assume that the depth stop and the fence can be swapped to both sides? If not, it would make for extra versatility.

I do not see nickers. Nickers are important for planing across the grain to prevent spelching, although a knifed line can help here as well.

A shoulder plane such as this one really does benefit from an adjustable mouth - move from fine shavings to coarse, deeper cuts.

What is the blade at the rear, and how is it used?

Excellent!

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks Derek. The fence and depth stop will fit either side. The nickers are on the front - some photos to follow that should make this clear. Yes, an adjustable mouth width would be good - I didn't think of a way to include it in this plane but it is a feature I would like to include in future designs. There is no blade at the rear.
User avatar
By rxh
#1336773
Here are some action shots. I tried rebating along the grain, rebating across the grain, cutting a housing and edge planing with the fence lowered below the sole and the fence clamping on the other side. When cutting across the grain the nickers were fitted and I started by drawing the plane backwards a couple of times to make the score marks.
Attachments
C360_2020-02-16-14-47-38-506A.jpg
C360_2020-02-16-14-55-52-469A.jpg
C360_2020-02-16-15-08-53-484A.jpg
C360_2020-02-16-15-38-29-462A.jpg
C360_2020-02-16-15-47-45-383A.jpg
User avatar
By AndyT
#1336778
Well that works!
I was a bit worried about the nickers being right on the front. On all similar planes I can think of they are between the iron and the toe.
So it's nice to see that a different solution is also good.
By IWW
#1337907
I think your plane is not only well-executed, it shows much thought & ingenuity, rxh. I reckon putting the nickers across the front like that was a small stroke of genius - it's always a bit of a conundrum where to put the darn things so they're not in the way. Can't see why they shouldn't work just as well as putting them on the side, so I'll certainly file that idea for possible future use (too late to patent it now, you've already made public disclosure... :D ).

It seems to me you put a lot of thought into your plane before you started cutting any metal. I have a habit of starting before thinking through the details. While I've usually ended up with something that works (even works well in a couple of cases), there are always things I would do differently if making the same plane again. There have been a few complete duds too!

This dovetailing plane I made a while ago is a case in point, I was more intent on getting the skewed blade sorted & paid less attention to some equally important aspects like the nicker - it looks a bit cobbled-on (because it is - I changed my original plan for mounting it).
D_T plane a.jpg


Left side.jpg


I don't think I'd bother with a handle if I were to make another, and I'd do the body with metal on both sides. But it works quite nicely & since I don't make sliding dovetails all that often, I suspect there will never be a Mk.II...
Test.jpg


Cheers,