Glue for Segmented Bowl Turning

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I use Cascamite adhesive, mainly because it does not have joint creep as PVA can with wood/humidity movements.
 
One side effect of using Cascamite, it sets solid, no give, if your wood is not seasoned to the environment in which it will be displayed or due account taken of the natural forces of opposing grain orientation in your construct then two things are likely to happen.

1. Wood segments may split along their line of least resistance.
2. Any end-grain joints may open up.

It's worth giving some thought to how your overall construct would help resist any such forces.
 
Titebond II was recommended for any segment glue ups. It goes off quite quickly so that the next layer can be added, sanded etc.

Also, sanding at a slower speed to avoid putting too much heat into the joints.
 
I use Titebond 2 now for most of my segmented glue ups, although I have used Titebond original for years before now and not had a problem. I just like the idea that titebond 2 has some level of resistance to moisture and water. I have just bought some Titebond Thick and Quick to be used in my next open segment build, but as yet I haven’t used it. It is supposed to grab quickly and more importantly dry clear, not showing any glue line. This seems to me to be useful feature as it’s always a pain cleaning up squeeze out with a damp pipe cleaner.
 
I had this discussion with Chas ( CHJ ) a little while ago and changed to cascamite on his recommendation as I found that with PVA type glues that you got some creep which left ridges at the joints. If you sell your work then this is undesirable
 
Made a test ring of 24 segments to confirm my jig was OK and then a six layer 72 segment bowl. It's a bit "Lego" like, but result is better than expected.

Bought some cascamite glue today, but not clear why PVA e.g. Titebond II isn't good and what creep means or how it shows. It was recommended to use Titebond II which is why I bought some, but I now have the choice to use cascamite.

Is it better to make a solid base? I made a 12 sided ring for the base, like the other layers, but I was told that a solid base might be better.

I will have to think about the maths for layers when the shape gets a bit more complicated. I was interested in also using only a small big of segmented rings on a bowl as a means of adding detail/variety e.g. 2/3 up from base, or at widest point etc.
 
Simon_M":2bnx6q1t said:
Bought some cascamite glue today, but not clear ..........what creep means or how it shows. .
If you are making closed segment work, glue creep will show itself as a detectable ridge or step at the joint. It may not be readily visible but is obvious to the 'feel' as you pass your fingers over it.
May not manifest itself for some days, weeks even, as and when humidity variations influence the wood and any grain orientation mis-match across the joint.
 
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