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By urowho
#1245875
Hi

I'm a novice at this since I last did woodwork in the first two years of senior school. Sorry!

I want to make some raised panels for my bathroom. I've got my head around most of it; plough a groove in the rails and stiles for the panel, the panel itself first a rebate then a bevel on the front surface then a rebate on the back as needed. The bit that confuses me though is the rails and stiles. I understand how to plough the groove and the bevel and then run a bead or moudling, but what I can't quite get is how to remove that moulding at the points where the stiles meet the rails. Do I just carefully cut a mitre in the moulding then chisel off a bit that corresponds to the joint, and then use a rebate plane to make tidy. Or is there some other obvious trick of the trade that I'm missing? I've seen some videos but they are only ever demonstrating a single panel so the issue never comes up.

Thanks for the pointers!
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By AndyT
#1245903
Short answer: yes.

Longer answer:

There are two approaches. Where the moulding is worked out of the solid (called a "stuck" moulding) then yes, a chisel is what you use. It helps that, almost always, the moulding will have a straight part on it which shows where you stop cutting.

Where the mouldings intersect, they look like they are mitred. They can be, but trad methods say that a coped joint is better and won't shrink back to a gap.

The alternative, simpler method is to work stiles and rails with a plain rebate, using long and short shoulders on the tenons so the gaps get filled up. Then mitre pieces of separately made moulding and nail them into place. This is called a planted moulding.

I'm assuming that you are asking about hand tool, trad methods. There's also a horrid looking method where you plough square grooves on square edged stock, assemble, then run an electric router round. This leaves nasty curves in the corners.

I took some photos of cutting back the moulding and coping the joints on some glazed doors a while back, which might help.

glazed-doors-mostly-by-hand-t39419.html

You won't need a rebate at the back as you can insert your panels during glue up but the cutting away of the moulding at the joints is similar.
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By AndyT
#1245906
urowho wrote:Thanks Andy

Great to know I'm thinking along the right lines. Really tidy work there with the chisel!

I was going to cope the mouldings, did you use an incannel gouge?

ATB


Yes. Ideally it would match the curved part of the ovolo, but a smaller one will do.