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By julianf
#1244098
If / when my Wadkin AGS gets sorted, I may have a spare cast iron top.

Someone suggested to me that it would make a good router table part, but did not elaborate any further.

What so you think? Basically it's a lump of cast with a couple of mitre slots and a hole?

I can weld up a stand easy enough (or, indeed, make one from wood!) and I CNC non ferrous for work, so making a custom insert is easy enough, but I'm not sure that really gets me that far?

Apart from the slots, I almost think I would do better with a lump of flat alloy.

Again, id be interested to hear your thoughts!

Thank you.
By kevinlightfoot
#1244111
I made my router table top out of an old spindle moulder top,I made it about 20 years ago.The only problem I had was I had to do a bit of fettling to get the router to fit.The cast iron drills easily to fit fences etc. and it's virtually vibration free,better than any purpose made top available today and if your top is slotted it is even better.The metalworking facilities you have get you half way there ,I would definitely go ahead and use the top.Mine also doubles as a table saw extension,if I could work out how to show photos I could give you a better idea of my set up but be assured it works very well and as I say better than ones available on the market where you end up buying rubbish fences router lifts and table inserts which are easily made to your own specifications.Regards Kevin.
By sunnybob
#1244132
Show me a lump of alloy as flat as a wadkin cast top. I want to buy it!

Build the router table.
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By Jelly
#1283736
sunnybob wrote:Show me a lump of alloy as flat as a wadkin cast top. I want to buy it!


I have some scrap aluminium, a surface plate and assorted scrapers... Flat to how many PPI do you say? :P

I agree with your point though, and Iron has another excellent benefit... Pressed or Extruded aluminium will never come close to the stiffness of cast iron; and Cast or Wrought Alu with Si-C and Graphite additives for damping capacity, is [literally] rocket science.


Julian,
You will get a particularly nice router table out of this if you decide to build it... Very interested to follow your progress on it.
By sunnybob
#1283791
jelly... did you realise this thread was last october? :shock:

Since then, I have spent the money on an Incra aluminium router plate to replace the Kreg phenolic which has warped (twice!).

The Incra is very impressive in its looks as well as its flatness. Nothing I have can measure any deviance. =D> =D>

My de walt 745 table saw is cast alloy, and is no where near as flat as the incra, although to be fair the incra is only 12" x10".
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By Jelly
#1283798
sunnybob wrote:jelly... did you realise this thread was last october? :shock:


I did not, although in my defense the whole look of the forum has been updated since my last visit, and what [I thought] used to be recent posts is now [Definitely] related posts...
By sunnybob
#1283803
Definitely "changed" :shock:
Theres quite a bunch that would argue "updated" :roll: :roll:
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By OscarG
#1283989
sunnybob wrote:jelly... did you realise this thread was last october? :shock:

Since then, I have spent the money on an Incra aluminium router plate to replace the Kreg phenolic which has warped (twice!).

The Incra is very impressive in its looks as well as its flatness. Nothing I have can measure any deviance. =D> =D>

My de walt 745 table saw is cast alloy, and is no where near as flat as the incra, although to be fair the incra is only 12" x10".


Bob, your 745 is cast iron?

I'm sure my one has some plasticy type top. :shock:
By sunnybob
#1284002
Oscar, youve got the wrong glasses on. my post clearly states " cast ALLOY" :roll:
Its some form of ali with a heavy grey painted coating.

Not as perfect as cast iron could be, but then again, its marketed as a site saw. Having put a freud blade in it and made a zero clearance insert plate, its pretty good for my needs.
Once I get around to making a short fence for it It will be adequate. 8)
By sunnybob
#1284028
Its just a piece of 9 mm ply, cut to shape, with some bits ground out here and there to allow it to fit flush, and a finger hole to one side for lifting out, rather than that overcomplicated bit of plastic on the original.
I made it long enough for the riving knife as well.

If I want to cut at an angle I put the original back in because so far I havent needed enough angle work to make the effort to make another.