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timber

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Anyone know where to get the aerosol spray that I can use to stick my Scroll saw patterns onto masking tape or wood And which is the best sort,
Thanks
Timber
 
I print patterns on to A4 adhesive labels (peel off back)

Stuck directly onto the wood

When cut, a quick wipe over the remaining pattern with turps subs, leave for 30 seconds and the remaining pattern comes off in one piece usually

It leaves no residue and is by far the easiest way I have found and cheapest

I started off with spray glue as suggested by others at the time, I found it a horrendous mess so quickly found a better method


timber":1ph11hl2 said:
Anyone know where to get the aerosol spray that I can use to stick my Scroll saw patterns onto masking tape or wood And which is the best sort,
Thanks
Timber
 
Any repositionable spray will do, 3m, Wilkos sell Bostik Fast tak, ebay, craft shops or online craft suppliers will have some. Spray the back of the pattern and stick it to the wood.
happy scrolling
Steve
 
loftyhermes":edd0dqkn said:
Any repositionable spray will do, 3m, Wilkos sell Bostik Fast tak, ebay, craft shops or online craft suppliers will have some. Spray the back of the pattern and stick it to the wood.
happy scrolling
Steve
Thanks for the replies, The one from you Steve came just right, I had to go to Oakham this morning to a house two doors away from Wilco's So now sorted. So many thanks.
Whatknot,
A4 paper
Now that sounds a good idea, ---will look into it ,I have only just bought the scroll saw so all is new to me, ????
In my past I had a small sawmill and the large bandsaw could handle tree trunks up to 6 foot diameter. although the largest I handled was 5 Ft.X 25 foot long
How times have changed from that saw ( A forester ) to this baby
Timber
 
re A4 self adhesive labels

I bought a new box a few weeks back, less than £6 for a box of 100 post free

Similar to : ebay item 181192033435
(that was the first I came to there are others)

Works for me
 
I've been toying with trying self-adhesive labels but...

I'm seriously careless and tend to go a bit gung-ho when printing patterns to stick to wood on the basis that a paper and ink is cheap enough to throw away any excess.

I suppose if I was using labels I would need to be a bit more careful

Phill
 
I think you are misunderstanding label as being a small address label, I use A4 one label to a page sheets

It costs me under 6p per page and no other costs bar toner for the printer which lasts for ages (years)


linkshouse":2nc00xvg said:
I've been toying with trying self-adhesive labels but...

I'm seriously careless and tend to go a bit gung-ho when printing patterns to stick to wood on the basis that a paper and ink is cheap enough to throw away any excess.

I suppose if I was using labels I would need to be a bit more careful

Phill
 
I understand that they're A4 full sheet labels but when I work with printed plain paper I tend to print about a million copies (well okay maybe slightly less) of the pattern then cut them up into individual pieces. Now I do try to be careful about how I cut the pieces out but I still end up with quite a lot of waste.

I suppose I should really try and plan my cutting a bit more carefully (whether using labels or not).

I suspect this is a bigger problem with intarsia work.

I'll give some a whirl as I do like the sound of the convenience.

Regards

Phill
 
Just remember when buying label paper to get "NON PERM", which are peel off and maybe even reuse glue.
"PERM" glue will not come off any where near easy, you might have to sand it all off.
 
I have never heard the term non perm

The box by my side has nothing on it to say one way or another

I have never had a problem with all the labels I have purchased for work or more recently for printing patterns



sunnybob":15ctg5cq said:
Just remember when buying label paper to get "NON PERM", which are peel off and maybe even reuse glue.
"PERM" glue will not come off any where near easy, you might have to sand it all off.
 
I would have thought that "permanent" labels would be more expensive ?

Personally I have never searched for or ordered anything else but just A4 self adhesive labels

I have had them from several different suppliers and never has the question come up of whether they were removable or permanent

Depending on the wood, or length of time they have been attached, and the time of year, some will just peel off and some will need a wipe with turps subs

But all come off with minimal effort, no tapes, no spray glue, no sanding


loftyhermes":3oo2imkg said:
Google removable/peelable labels, there are loads of suppliers. They're dearer than ordinary labels though. This is the first one when I googled. https://www.a4labels.com/pages/peelable ... gJ6hfD_BwE
happy scrolling
Steve
 
Interesting ..........

Up to now I use plain paper and glue stick, but first put masking tape on the wood, followed up by the pattern, then lastly, a layer of transparent sellotape-like stuff. A lengthy procedure, but it works well for me, AND the whole lot is relatively easy to remove after cutting.

But for me, the clincher in favour of the above method is that even when cutting tiny bits, you don't get that part of the pattern being lifted up off the wood by the blade, which is what happened quite often before I went the above masking tape/glue stick/transparent tape sytem (NOT my own BTW).

That pattern lifting is VERY disturbing I find - it's difficult to stick the paper back down again after it's lifted -and lifting certainly does nothing to help my cutting accuracy!

So my question to all you A4 sticky label users please: Does your pattern always stay down on the wood whatever the size and angle/s of the parts you're cutting out??

TIA

AES
 
I started with the masking tape, spray glue, sellotape as suggested by many, but what a faff !

I use a mono laser printer, I adapt the pattern to have as little black areas as possible (ie I white out the larger middle parts of black areas) until I print onto A4 sticky label paper

Stick direct to the wood, no lift at all, some will peel off if not left to long, but a wipe with turps subs and it lifts off completely usually in one go

Not had any lift on me as yet and as the label is still sticky it would just stick down again if it did

Much cleaner, neater and cheaper if it comes to that

I have several rolls of wide masking & sellotape and spray glue which I have hardly used since


AES":2cce27d5 said:
Interesting ..........

Up to now I use plain paper and glue stick, but first put masking tape on the wood, followed up by the pattern, then lastly, a layer of transparent sellotape-like stuff. A lengthy procedure, but it works well for me, AND the whole lot is relatively easy to remove after cutting.

But for me, the clincher in favour of the above method is that even when cutting tiny bits, you don't get that part of the pattern being lifted up off the wood by the blade, which is what happened quite often before I went the above masking tape/glue stick/transparent tape sytem (NOT my own BTW).

That pattern lifting is VERY disturbing I find - it's difficult to stick the paper back down again after it's lifted -and lifting certainly does nothing to help my cutting accuracy!

So my question to all you A4 sticky label users please: Does your pattern always stay down on the wood whatever the size and angle/s of the parts you're cutting out??

TIA

AES
 
I’ve been printing onto plain paper, and using double sided tape. Cheap tape pulls off quite easily once you’ve finished cutting, without the need for solvent.
 
Still with the old tried and tested system here

Cover wood with Blue masking tape, both sides
Stick pattern down with old PVA; sometimes diluted
Cover with clear parcel tape; we call it Sellotape round here

After the cut, all paper removes within seconds
Easy p :) easy

They say the Sellotape lubricates the blade - so should last longer :|
 
Intersting again Roland. Thanks. Has a part of your pattern ever lifted upoff the wood asyou've cut it please?

AES
 

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