Brad point drill bits

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Yes, it's possible. I have some - given to me - which I think came from a French DIY store - with a sort of curved conical tip. Intended for metal, not wood. Might have been by Bosch. I'll look properly later if nobody else finds them first.

Another option, assuming you want these for metal, is a centre drill - short, stubby and generally pointed at both ends, and used on lathes to get a mounting hole for a dead centre.
 
I actually want this for wood. I want to be able to use a center punch to mark my location accurately, and then use the brad point to follow this hole for accurate drilling. But as the tips on the bits I bought aren't really a point, but more an approximation of a point (like on a spade bit), it doesn't fit in the hole from the punch very well.
 
How about grinding the points yourself? Not difficult, especially if you have a lathe for added rigidity. I re-grind and make my own drills quite often.
 
Have a hunt for 'lip and spur' drills. Those should really be about the same as brad point drills, but in practice some seem to have more pronounced centre points and edge cutting lips than others. I've had mine for years; some came from Tilgear, some were freebies from magazine covers, but all have quite distinct conical centre points - so they are out there somewhere!
 
AndyT":33sbsrgy said:
Yes, it's possible. I have some - given to me - which I think came from a French DIY store - with a sort of curved conical tip. Intended for metal, not wood. Might have been by Bosch. I'll look properly later if nobody else finds them first.

Another option, assuming you want these for metal, is a centre drill - short, stubby and generally pointed at both ends, and used on lathes to get a mounting hole for a dead centre.

These?
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=dewal ... EALH-kQE8M:
I wouldn't think the OP was drilling metal, or he wouldn't have been looking at lip and spur bits?
 
When i was doing my sheet metal work apprenticeship these were called sheet metal or spot weld drills, we had to grind our own. The centre was just a small pip and the flat section cleared away the metal of the spot weld without marking the lower metal.
 
Yes, a bit like those Phil and probably the same as hawkeyefxr.
But for Transatlantic's problem, now it's clear that you are drilling wood, I think your simplest solution is to leave the centre punch for metalwork and find something sharper. This could be a "proper" awl or a sharpened nail or a cheap little screwdriver filed to a smooth sharp point. Then you can get a better defined mark that the drills you have will work well with.
 
Related question; I have one of the excellent Axy sets of lip and spur bits that they sold a couple of years ago. Somewhere, I've lost the 5mm one and can't find a sensible replacement - seem either to be stupidly expensive or cheap and nasty. Any suggestions?
 
AndyT":waci80wc said:
Another option, assuming you want these for metal, is a centre drill - short, stubby and generally pointed at both ends, and used on lathes to get a mounting hole for a dead centre.

I use those for wood and they are very good for starting holes, and countersinking at the same time if you need.

Just search a well known auction site for "Center Spotting Drill Bits" and you should find sets for a couple of quid.
 
AndyT":2keqizoe said:
Yes, a bit like those Phil and probably the same as hawkeyefxr.
But for Transatlantic's problem, now it's clear that you are drilling wood, I think your simplest solution is to leave the centre punch for metalwork and find something sharper. This could be a "proper" awl or a sharpened nail or a cheap little screwdriver filed to a smooth sharp point. Then you can get a better defined mark that the drills you have will work well with.

The center punch works fine, it's just the drill bits that don't have much of a point, meaning they don't locate into the hole made by the punch as they don't have a definitive point, more like a diamond tip. I don't think using a bigger punch is going to help much as the lack of a definitive point will still introduce wandering, but I'll give it a shot.
 
I don't think using a bigger punch is going to help much as the lack of a definitive point will still introduce wandering, but I'll give it a shot.

I think the suggestion was for a smaller point, not a bigger one. A Bradawl would be my suggestion also.
 
Here is a picture of a veritas brad point bit. I have several of these they are kept in a drill box with cotton wool all around them to protect them, they only get used when I need perfect holes, today I've been using the 7.5mm to drill holes for shelf peg sockets.
I use a bradawl to mark the location the brad point is then perfectly lined up for drilling.
They ain't cheap but they're worth it if you look after them
 

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